Thread: 04 D2a TD5 turns over but won't start

Originally Posted by sierrafery

You can't rely on Icarsoft when it comes to the Td5 engne data, it works on all other systems OK but not on the engine, i've tried myself as i had one and compared with nanocom and hawkeye after it gave me all kind off bullsh*t data like your's... though the crank signal related fault codes as shown by nanocom too are worrying so your plan to replace the starter and the CPS is good IMO, when the starter disturbs the crank signal it has nothing to do with what a solenoid repair kit can fix, it's something internal probably arching at the collector or in the winding

Thanks for the info mate, yeah i'm well aware the icarsoft isn't the greatest (it's getting slightly better each update, but yes, its no Nanocom by any stretch). Would you say that the combination of the starter potentially/probably playing up and the cps could potentially stop the car running whilst its driving somehow? As that's essentially how all this started (or not started as the case is), died on the way to work. I'm perfectly fine with spending the money buying a new starter/cps (it has had a new one in the past and it did help, ages ago. But i guess these things wear out and if the starter is ultimately playing up I guess (?) it could cause it to wear out prematurely?) cause a lot of current signs are pointing that way. Appreciate the help from you and everyone

No, if it stopped while driving the starter is no factor.... then it's about CPS or it's wiring

Originally Posted by sierrafery

No, if it stopped while driving the starter is no factor.... then it's about CPS or it's wiring

Cheers mate. Interesting position now, potentially fix the lack of starting yet it still might stop if it does . Weird things have helped the car in the past, it might just be worth a shot.

Ok, quick update, so brand new starter and cps fitted (no, not a genuine cps i'll admit that, the budget/willingness to spend on a "what if?" didn't remotely stretch that far) aaaaaand it spins over way faster than it ever has, winning. Still doesn't start, not-winning. So for now, two options. Cut my losses and wreck/sell as is or, save up some cash and send it to someone to hopefully fix. God knows what the last option will cost? But I think it's too good to wreck (no matter how over it I am ), so i'm leaning towards the saving/sending it somewhere option........for now.........maybe.......
Yet again, a massive thank you to everyone who's offered ideas/help, and a bigger thankyou to Bohica for making the drive down to Geelong

Hi Ash, if time and space are not an issue, then let it sit for a while, it can be only one of a few things, I had a issue 12 months ago that dragged on and on, everyone told me it had to be electrical, but I finally figured it out after a long time of troubleshooting and I now know the td5 far better than I thought I ever would.

If you go the other way and want to sell it, pm me ... I can always use a spare truck (or two)

Ok, so firstly it started the other day.........then stopped, now won't start again (I was very happy when it started, so i'm claiming a partial win for now). How we got there, I was told the brand of crank sensor I had in it would've been better being thrown directly into the bin when it arrived rather than putting it in the car (Intermodel.....yes, I went cheap ). A Lucas one was recommended at around the $400 mark, which yes is better than the genuine at around the $820-mark.......but still a no. So I did some googling, found the Lucas part number, found they're still around the $300 overseas. Saving commenced.
Then I found a genuine Hella one on Ebay, my cheapo reasoning... Hella = Good reliable name. Purchased. Then about 2 mins later I found a genuine Lucas one on Ebay in the UK. Purchased, both delivered for about $140aud total (yes, i'm aware some people are saying I should've just saved and got the genuine, i've never claimed to be sensible, nor do I still want to spend too much).
After waiting a couple of weeks the Hella one arrived, put it in. Nothing. Spins over, no attempt on firing, no smoke, just turns over. Decide to wait till the Lucas one arrives and the Hella one looks great in its Hella box on the shelf.....
Battery gets trickle charged whilst waiting for the Lucas one to arrive. It comes, gets fitted..... bleed sequence for pump, turn key, cranks, blows black smoke and attempts to kick. There was cheering. I check the voltage on my Icarsoft (yes I know its "rubbish", but its all I have), voltage is dropping below 10v when cranking. Hook up dad's V6 petrol ute with jumper cables, try again. Foot flat to the floor cranking, more attempts to fire and then......it starts. Hand off key, its running. Albeit very rough and a heap of black smoke Some idiot (me) backs off the throttle about 2mm to give it a better chance, it stalls. Back to cranking and attempting to fire yet notttttt quite. Check voltage again, dropping to 10.1-ish whilst cranking with jumper cables connected.
So, my thoughts, even though they've all been checked, we're going over the wiring again. Thinking maybe a dodgy earth? Something causing too much drain? There has to be a wire/earth/something somewhere that may've been causing the starting issues (fingers crossed). Also not ruling out the battery being knackered, and will get that properly tested this week, to be fair it has done alot of cranking in the last 6 months. It has been trickle-charged with a c-tec charger but they obviously don't last forever.
Anyway, just thought i'd post a update, thankyou once again for everyones help, it means alot. I'll keep this updated

If the voltage drops below 10.5V and the battery is a strong good one then the starter can be suspect again

my thoughts, Borrow a battery the bigger the better and give it a shot. My td5 would not start after some work. It turned over merrily but refused to start. I got a new battery on advise from a landy man and it started straight away. The explanation I received was that the ecu need at least 12v to start to play the game. (now this could be wrong) if your battery does not have the crank amps then turning over the motor and ecu needs may not be met. my reasoning being that it jumped started.