Heads or not?

**Dozer2** · 7th March 2019, 10:32 PM

Got the heads back from skimming. More of a polish than a skim since they were level and didn't have any problems. Cheaper and faster than expected. Now to replace the valve stem seals and clean up the block before reassembly.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I suggest that you us GM sealant when you refit the heads. That will make them easier to remove next time.
Regards Philip A

Will do. The head shop also suggested a little grease under the head of the bolt to prevent seizing and the squeaky metal noises when tightening bolts. Though I do hope there's not a next time.

Originally Posted by LRJim

What was the bolt mans trick?
Cheers Jim

A different socket and a lot more muscle than me.

Shell

**Dozer2** · 7th March 2019, 10:38 PM

Originally Posted by Andrew D

Now onto the fun bits of cleaning the block and heads (plus any things else you want really)

I went the full monty only to find out it was a lower block lemon

Heads came up nicely with the shop's part washer. Tempted to send the other bits I took off there for a wash too. Sorry to hear that your block was a lemon after all that work.

Shell

**ozscott** · 8th March 2019, 08:19 AM

You are not tamper by an ARP head stud kit?

Cheers

**101RRS** · 8th March 2019, 10:24 AM

I thought that if you used a ARB stud kit on an V8 in a D2 you cannot get the heads off and back on with the engine in the engine bay.

However I guess once you have removed the nuts you could screw out the studs as they have an allen key slot in the top.

As the OP will have to buy new stretch bolts to refit the heads, if there is a way to go ARP studs I would definitely be going that route. I have studs on my engine and they are worth the little bit extra.

Garry

**ozscott** · 8th March 2019, 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by garrycol

I thought that if you used a ARB stud kit on an V8 in a D2 you cannot get the heads off and back on with the engine in the engine bay.

However I guess once you have removed the nuts you could screw out the studs as they have an allen key slot in the top.

As the OP will have to buy new stretch bolts to refit the heads, if there is a way to go ARP studs I would definitely be going that route. I have studs on my engine and they are worth the little bit extra.

Garry

Gary I found it quite easy to put the ARP head studs into the block and put the heads on in the bay of my D2. Cleaned block threads and used the supplied thread grease. Stock gaskets. Very happy with outcome. Cheers

**101RRS** · 8th March 2019, 10:40 AM

Ok thanks - I dont know D2s it was just something I had heard.

On the basis of what you have said I would definitely put ARP studs in.

**ozscott** · 8th March 2019, 10:45 AM

There is a kit for 10 bolt heads on eBay at the moment. Just check part number on ARP web site. Cheers

**101RRS** · 8th March 2019, 11:49 AM

Yes the 4.0/4.6 stud kit is different to the 3.5 kit. Not sure the difference other than number of studs but I think the later kit has more threads.

The correct ARP stud kit for the 4.0/4.6 is part number 157-4301 (Rover 3.9L-4.6L V8 W/10 Bolt Heads HSK)

garry

**Dozer2** · 8th March 2019, 09:51 PM

Already got the regular bolts, they came with the gasket set. If there's ever a next time I'll consider the studs.

Shell

**biggin** · 9th March 2019, 07:20 AM

If you follow the tightening sequence to the letter, you’ll be fine.

Thread: Heads or not?

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