Reply With QuoteLook at the top of the block near the threaded hole at bottom right.
See the stain that is nowhere else?
IMHO it could be caused by water moving between the gasket and sleeve.
That is the usual place they crack.
Regards Philip A
Wizard
You need to pressure test the lower block. Then you will have the answer. I suspect the bore has cracked.Originally Posted by biggin
Does this look like a sleeve that has slipped, because after looking at this very closely, it looks exactly the same as the good ones.
I didn't have any noise, just a minor amount of moisture in the cylinder that eventually became a large amount.
Swaggie
SubscriberLook at the top of the block near the threaded hole at bottom right.
See the stain that is nowhere else?
IMHO it could be caused by water moving between the gasket and sleeve.
That is the usual place they crack.
Regards Philip A
LordRover
SupporterLooking at your pic again - the subject piston top looks pretty clean with only a bit of carbon yet the one to the right is pretty covered in carbon when they should all look pretty much the same - on looking at your pic again the subject piston looks like it has been steam cleaned - a clear symptom of a slipped liner.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The MOD Father
whats all the gunge on the gasket near the firewall?
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Wizard
Wizard
SubscriberI think it was oil spilling from the end headbolt hole when I removed the head.whats all the gunge on the gasket near the firewall?
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Wizard
SubscriberAh ha, good on you Andrew. Finally the RPI video answers the problems I had understanding how new liners would stop the coolant leak.
The answer is, it won’t!
So, in short, a block with coolant leaks behind the liner are U/S.
Only a block with slipped liners but no coolant leaks can be refurbished with new top hat liners.
Not a good outcome but I’m happy that I finally have my head around this issue.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
ForumSage
SubscriberIt is interesting how off centre the casts became. The machining marks per the video shown with the fighter planes evidence that...see the screenshot below and watch the vid for explanation. Deep castings near pushrods on one side and none at all on the other...so you can see how water jacket castings were so out of tolerance. Then see a photo of the valley from my motor which is a mid 90's 4.6...No such issues so it seems they went south after that. Cheers
Master
SubscriberMay be worth considering vacuum impregnation in addition to new liners, top hat or plain, or pinned.
My 4.6 was rebuilt with pinned liners and vacuum impregnated by the previous owner 180k km ago and seems ok still. Existing liners were used, honed and new rings fitted.
Vacuum impregnation was common when I was an apprentice with a machine tool manufacturer back in the '60s. they used a resin compound to seal porous castings which had hydraulic oil reservoirs.
These days a Loctite compound is used.
I have the name of the company who did the job if interested.
Terry
80 109" 2.6 P ex Army GS, saved from the scrappie.
95 300tdi 130 Single cab tray.
2010 Guzzi 750
TopicToaster
SupporterI have a D2 V8 that I'm slowly .. no!.. very slowly getting back on the road with motor issues too.
I suspected a slipped liner/cracked block, but in the mean time I checked cooling system and found many great wonders and anomalies on the 'work' that previous repairers had tried on the cooling system.
Blocked coolant pathways, diversions, etc. Then pulled the radiator and found it 99.99% blocked up with crud too.
Fitted new rad, test drove car a little, ran OK, so booked in to get a RWC inspection. On the way it heated up about 40mins into the drive and cooked the motor(oops .. pushed it a bit over the dge I guess).
But it only confirmed what I knew anyhow .. that the block had a crack that caused the original overheating .. hence the bodge job previous attempts to bypass the underlying issue.
So the motor is scrap, and my V8 killing effort to get to the RWC inspection was probably for the best for this particular engine anyhow!
About 12 months ago, I located a recommended shop to do the heads and got a couple of prices from them(here in Melbourne).
$650 for the heads alone, and another $1100 to also do the top hat liner on the block.
Didn't think to ask if the $1100 for the block was good just for the block alone, or if that price was because I'd get the heads done there too .. but as a ballpark figure that's what I was quoted.
Note I didn't specifically ask if this $1100 was for supplied and fitted liners, or just the cost of the engineering(ie. that I'd have to supply liners). I just assumed back then that his quote was all inclusive(he would supply liners).
ps. have another motor going to go into this car ... just need the time to do it.
hopefully soon.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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