Thread: Auto Trans Issue?

Originally Posted by Lemo

So....
When I do my next service change and I opt for the Penrite full syn, currently using the semi and get an extra 2x smoother shifting🤣


Would this be compatible and only do two add/drain/fill or do the three full change??

Cheers Lemo

Compatability wise it'd be fine, the additive package would be very similar, the full syn uses a Group III base oil, the semi is obviously a mix of Group II and some syn, could be Group III, IV, V or a mix to get the oxidation resistance they are looking for to meet that price point.
If Penrite are still using the Korean sourced Group III they were in the past, it's recognised as being equal to the best Group III oils available, pretty much equalling a Group IV in performance except at very low ambients.
Think Canadian or Siberian winters.
Not something we need to worry about here!

I don't have any oil test results of any atf.
I have plenty of test kits to hand, just have to draw some off and send it away....

Originally Posted by John_D2

Agreed. Again it’s 19 years old and I don’t know the history of the previous owners.

Slunnie killed a few HP22's early in the D2's days.
They need additional cooling here.
And the modified TC in the TD5 (V8) drops fluid temps too

Originally Posted by rick130

Slunnie killed a few HP22's early in the D2's days.
They need additional cooling here.
And the modified TC in the TD5 (V8) drops fluid temps too

I've spent a lot of money on these things!

In a nutshell, you have to keep them cool. Don't ever let them overheat, not once! As soon as they've overheated it starts a spiral of distruction and they slowly come apart on the inside and they are will (not "might") fail.

What kills them:
If you have been offroad, notably in mud as it blocks the ATF cooler which is hidden in the radiator pack inbetween the AC condensor and the radiator and at the very bottom - right where it fills with mud and where you cant clean it out.
Power upgrade on the engine
Towing

The long and short to having a reliable auto in the D2 is do this:
Additional inline ATF cooler with high pressure Pirtek type fittings only - keep it cool and dont let the hoses explode off the fittings!!!
If you do a rebuild, have them use HP24 3rd and 4th which are much stronger parts and will fit
Keep the mud out of the factory ATF cooler
If you're doing heavy work (eg towing, hills etc) and the TC is unlocked in 4th for a notable period, then pull it back into 3rd and let it lock up - when the TC is unlocked it generates a lot of heat.

I don't think the 4HP22 itself is so much of a problem, its more the TC and ATF cooler which are the problems and end result of the the ATF cooler and TC problems is then seen as transmission failures. I suspect if you put a 4HP24 into the same situation with the factory TD5 TC and ATF cooler, the 4HP24 will have exactly the same problems.

Is it worth buying a HD TC?

Originally Posted by John_D2

Is it worth buying a HD TC?

What I'm hearing is the upgraded TC needs ECU upgrade, intercooler etc to work best. It wasnt an option for me at the time so I cant comment too much n it.

Originally Posted by John_D2

Is it worth buying a HD TC?

Originally Posted by Slunnie

What I'm hearing is the upgraded TC needs ECU upgrade, intercooler etc to work best. It wasnt an option for me at the time so I cant comment too much n it.

This ^ from what everyone tells me.

It's on my list of upgrades, one from TCT in Melbourne.
The big advantage of the bigger TC is it drops the revs right back (plus a stronger clutch and brazed vanes) so works really well with a rewritten map for more mid range.
That drops running temps, but as Slunnie said, use lockup third, I use it a lot, and I'm not even towing.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

What I'm hearing is the upgraded TC needs ECU upgrade, intercooler etc to work best. It wasnt an option for me at the time so I cant comment too much n it.

I have a TRS ECU and an Allisport IC. Exhaust is standard as is the turbo.

Tranny shop in melb told me the std tc is fine except for the mounts which are weak and will break an ear off if the spigot/pilot on the front gets worn allowing the tc to wobble about. Of course the std flex plate is rubbish and should be replaced with a hd unit.

The same shop said they could weld a band around the tc mounts to strengthen them. They reckoned the tc internals were strong enuf. Cost was no more than 1400 dollars which included an internal rebuild if necessary.

Totally agree with the comment re heat avoidance.