Thread: LT230 Rebuild

Originally Posted by Lemo

Looks to me that the outer bush thickness is larger then the internal? So I'd say its got the "top hat" in it, John will be able to confirm.

Yeah the inner surface looks rough! Maybe John will need some sealant as well as the O ring? Or maybe a parallel ream could smooth out the surface with out removing to much material?

Lemo

Correct it’s a top hat. I couldn’t remember the name of what he did because he talk non stop! It took me 20 mins to pay and leave!

What’s a parallel ream? The engineer knew exactly what needed to be done so I assumed that he would do the job as required. He is an older guy with many years experience.

I might add some sealer to it just in case tho.

Nothing a flapper wheel won't fix smoothing out the roughness, I am against using sealant where there is a O ring as any movement however slight the O ring will compensate add sealer and this can stop the O ring from doing its job,
general rule of thumb is allow 10% "crush" or protrusion of the O ring.

Originally Posted by John_D2

Correct it’s a top hat. I couldn’t remember the name of what he did because he talk non stop! It took me 20 mins to pay and leave!

What’s a parallel ream? The engineer knew exactly what needed to be done so I assumed that he would do the job as required. He is an older guy with many years experience.

I might add some sealer to it just in case tho.

these Basic Information on Reamers

I had a chance to actually feel the inside edge that everyone is talking about. It feels smooth to touch, not unlike the outside machining that feels rough. I’m guessing (purely guessing), but as a woodworker the finish feels like 150-180 grit sandpaper finish not like the outside that feels more like 80-120 grit.

I guess that if I assemble it and it leaks, the intermediate gears are the easiest ones to fix the leak from (as removal of the intermediate gears is step 2 of the strip down procedure)

On another matter, my backlash is definitely getting worse. I’ve found a local trans with 160000km on it that the guy sais is ok. He’s only after $500 for it. I’m wondering that if I’m going to the effort of putting in the transfer case then why not replace the trans also?

My trans oil comes out pretty black after only a short time. After I bought the car I towed a huge trailer 800km in drive with the cruise control on (not re mapped). Afterwards I changed the oil and it came out silver. I’ve learnt how to tow with a d2 since.

Thoughts? (On replacing the trans not how badly I’ve treated it in the past!)

Lots of trans past their use by date at those kays,,,
why not buy a runner so you can check the boxes performance,, then quietly dispose of the remains?

Progress update. Centre diff, front and rear housings are in. Setting the centre diff preload turned out to be easier than planned. I watched this movie:

YouTube

Using a dial calliper I found out that I actually had no free play at all when I used the original shim. Everything inside turns freely so I guess that’s ok.

Next: assembly of the bits that bolt onto the front housing

Crap crap crap! I put this part in backwards. Now I have to disassemble the front output housing!

The side marked 1 should be where number 2 is