Thread: Front power window repair... more info

Is the motor loose on its bolts allowing it to jump gears as it come to the end of the regulator travel.

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

JezzaRezza,

As I understand it (having done the same job less than a year ago), when the window reaches the bottom (or the top) of its travel, resistance to further movement is electronically sensed (by the BCU?) and power is switched off.

....

If that's the case, then to check it should be simple enough.
Use a wedge between top of window and frame(eg. block of wood) and if you hear strange noises or smell smoke(of burning electrics! ) .. then as Andrew said, bung electronic sensing.
If you have the door card off, you could do the same thing with the wedge at the bottom too.

As for fix .. can't help.

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

JezzaRezza,

As I understand it (having done the same job less than a year ago), when the window reaches the bottom (or the top) of its travel, resistance to further movement is electronically sensed (by the BCU?) and power is switched off.

If this is NOT happening with yours, then maybe the cause is not in the physical winding / raising / lowering mechanism, but in the electronic control of their operation.

Sierrafery on this forum might be worth asking about this - he seems to be very cluey on such matters!

Cheers,
Andrew

Thanks mate, could be that. However, the window on the other side works, and now the new stop mechanism (my bolt jobby) stops the dicky passenger side window.

Originally Posted by 4bee

I think you might be on to something there. My D1 ( a similar if not identical setup) had rubber buffer stops at the bottom of the down movement Not sure if on the bottom channel or on the moving arm, but one had come off. (Glued on no mechanical fastening) and was creating the same problem as your one.
Worth a look. It would now be laying in the bottom of the door. Can't recall, but I suspect there was just the one stop????

I did look for a piece of anything in the bottom of the window.. no luck!

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

Is the motor loose on its bolts allowing it to jump gears as it come to the end of the regulator travel.

This made me think! The motor was well fixed, no doubt about that.

I have it all back together now and it’s working at least reasonably well.

But...

Now that you mentioned that, I’m thinking I may know how the mechanism has been compromised.

The broken nylon plastic track guide was the instigator of this whole thing

That may have bent the scissor just enough to allow the toothed arm to jump some small guides and twist it just enough so that the gear was able to climb the part that I drew the red line on.

That would mean a fix would need three well placed welds (one on the back edge of teeth, two on the arm guides). I’ll have a close look and report back in about 3 or 4 weeks when my uni exams are done.

You can’t see the arm guides in any of the photos I have very well but here’s a pic that you can see from the side. It MAY be the problem, it may not, we shall see...

Still hard to see in this photo but it gives some perspective as to where I’m talking about when I say “arm guides”

I think the moral of this thread is to fix it as soon as you hear the clunk.
regards PhilipA

I agree, otherwise instead of a tiny molehill it becomes a Mt Everest. The olde stitch in time...blah blah blah.


When you eventually fix it you'll probably say " Geezuz, that was so simple, why did I get my nuts in a knot".