Window regulator and motor II
Jeff,
Just had a couple of other thoughts.
You didn't say which window you're having a problem with (I guess that I assumed the driver's one).
Do the other windows in the car behave normally?
If so, there's probably nothing wrong with the electrical control system (BCU) for the windows.
This is worth checking before going back inside your door, to look for a mechanical explanation.
As an aside, I note that my 2003-4 D2a does not have Auto-UP on any windows.
This could differ according to equipment level, I suppose.
Could you possibly have swapped polarity to the replacement window motor when you cut off both male and female connection blocks and re terminated both lots of wires?
I don't know just what the result of doing so would be.
But once you've got the door card off, it would be easy to check wire colours on both sides of your join, to see if they look to be "straight through" or transposed.
Good luck,
Andrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jethro58
Hi Andrew and others, I found the same thing when I purchased a regulator last year, thinking my reg was stuffed. Found out my reg was ok then purchased a new motor which had different plugs. I re terminated both lots of wires so they are removable and it was all good. My issue is that now the window doesn’t do the auto stop thing at the top or bottom- it keeps trying to go up or down, jumping the cogs on the reg. Have to hit the button again on the auto up and manually stop it on the way down. Any suggestions on a fix? I don’t want to strip any cogs and have to do the job again!
Cheers Jeff
New Window Motor / Regulator Problem
Hi All,
In Feb 2020, I replaced both the window regulator and the electric motor for the DRIVER'S door in my TD5 D2a.
Very recently, I found that the front RHS (Driver's) window will not go down from the fully-up position.
The front passenger-side window operates normally, so the fuse (F34) is OK (as both front windows operate through the same fuse).
When I press the driver's door window switch to go down or up, I can hear a very slight sound from within the door.
I have removed the Driver's door interior trim panel and disconnected the connector block for the motor, then plugged in the old motor (replaced in Feb 2020 although still working).
Pressing the window switch causes the old motor to run in the appropriate direction.
So I conclude that the problem is not an electrical one (Fuse OK, switch OK, current reaching motor).
I have tried placing my hands of both sides of the glass and pulling down while an assistant presses the "Down" switch, without success.
In order to get the window regulator and motor out of the door, it is necessary to have the window in the fully-down position.
But I cannot get the window to go down.
It is not possible to get the whole window frame upwards out of the door while the motor and regulator are still attached to the glass.
With the door card removed, I can see into the cavity at the bottom of the door, and there is no debris (like bits of broken roller, screw/s, etc) there.
Using a small torch, I can also see both rollers on the bottom rail of the regulator (the one that the bottom edge of the window glass attaches to), and they look intact.
I suspect that something is jammed tight in the regulator mechanism, preventing the motor from effecting any movement at all (even though it is trying to turn).
I feel stymied, and would appreciate any tips on how to proceed.
It seems likely to me that this must have happened to others before me.
Can anyone offer advice on how to get the window regulator out, so I can inspect it and either fix what may be jammed, or replace it with another one (I still have the old one, which I refurbished and retained after installing the new one).
Cheers, Andrew
More detail on Removing Driver's window upper frame
Quote:
Originally Posted by
AK83
not necessarily!
You can also remove the mechanism by removing the upper frame too. It's not easy, but doable and requires a lot of patience and creative manipulation.
I had similar issue with a fully up window on drivers side, the gear tooth got worn AND window motor died.
With upper frame removed the window has room to move about a lot more, and you then remove the window winding mechanism from the door then move the whole assembly about until you can just see the two upper bolts to remove the windowThat is the metal strip that clamps the window).
Once the window is removed, the fully extended winder mechanism is then a lot more free to be moved about to get it out of the door.
Hi Arthur, and thanks for your reply to my question.
So that I am clear on this, you mean the window frame that forms the upper part of the door, and surrounds the glass when it is fully up, right?
As I recall, the very bottom of the "legs" of this frame are held by two bolts at the very bottom, inside the bottom of the door cavity.
Also, by one Torx screw higher up, on each of the front and rear edges of the door.
Finally, one bolt just under the external door mirror.
Are you saying that after releasing these five fasteners, the upper frame (consisting essentially of the "velvet" channel in which the edge of the glass slides) can be pulled up and out of the door, leaving the glass and the regulator in place?
Then, there is enough room to wriggle and manipulate the regulator and glass together, until it is possible to separate them.
It would firstly be necessary to undo the 4 or 5 bolts that hold the regulator (with its motor) to the inside of the inner metal door skin - correct?
I'm guessing that undoing those bolts allows you to lower the regulator and glass to the bottom of the door cavity.
I am concerned that if the regulator, or the drive rack and pinion is jammed and cannot articulate, then it may not be possible to collapse (fold down) the regulator, which has to be done in order to get it out of the door cavity.
Can you give me any extra pointers before I take this job on, please?
Cheers, Andrew
Trouble is - I cannot lower the window
Quote:
Originally Posted by
PhilipA
As per the above you do not have to remove the window frame.
You have to lower the window to about half way and hold it with duct tape over the top of the frame and then you can get to the bolts and the window regulator and motor can be extracted from the gap at the bottom.
Regards PhilipA
In my case much to my surprise the big crescent gear fell out into the bottom of the door which later made things easier.
When you refit you do not have to be exact with the position of the motor on the gear as the BCU stops automatically at top and bottom , just ensur e that you are roughly correct with the gear about half way when the window is half way .
I think I then pushed the glass right up and held it with duct tape after I disconnected the regulator, to give room.
Thanks, Philip.
I have previously replaced the window regulators in both front doors, as well as the motor in the Driver's one.
So I have a fair idea about the procedure under normal circumstances.
The reason that I am seeking assistance here is that I cannot lower the window, by any amount, from the fully-up position.
The exact reason for this I do not yet know, but it seems likely that something is very firmly jammed and simply will not move, even though the motor is trying to operate.
Cheers, Andrew
