Thread: Window Regulator and motor

Hi All,

In Feb 2020, I replaced both the window regulator and the electric motor for the DRIVER'S door in my TD5 D2a.
Very recently, I found that the front RHS (Driver's) window will not go down from the fully-up position.
The front passenger-side window operates normally, so the fuse (F34) is OK (as both front windows operate through the same fuse).

When I press the driver's door window switch to go down or up, I can hear a very slight sound from within the door.
I have removed the Driver's door interior trim panel and disconnected the connector block for the motor, then plugged in the old motor (replaced in Feb 2020 although still working).
Pressing the window switch causes the old motor to run in the appropriate direction.
So I conclude that the problem is not an electrical one (Fuse OK, switch OK, current reaching motor).

I have tried placing my hands of both sides of the glass and pulling down while an assistant presses the "Down" switch, without success.
In order to get the window regulator and motor out of the door, it is necessary to have the window in the fully-down position.
But I cannot get the window to go down.
It is not possible to get the whole window frame upwards out of the door while the motor and regulator are still attached to the glass.

With the door card removed, I can see into the cavity at the bottom of the door, and there is no debris (like bits of broken roller, screw/s, etc) there.
Using a small torch, I can also see both rollers on the bottom rail of the regulator (the one that the bottom edge of the window glass attaches to), and they look intact.
I suspect that something is jammed tight in the regulator mechanism, preventing the motor from effecting any movement at all (even though it is trying to turn).
I feel stymied, and would appreciate any tips on how to proceed.

It seems likely to me that this must have happened to others before me.
Can anyone offer advice on how to get the window regulator out, so I can inspect it and either fix what may be jammed, or replace it with another one (I still have the old one, which I refurbished and retained after installing the new one).

Cheers, Andrew

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

....

I have tried placing my hands of both sides of the glass and pulling down while an assistant presses the "Down" switch, without success.
In order to get the window regulator and motor out of the door, it is necessary to have the window in the fully-down position.
.....

not necessarily!

You can also remove the mechanism by removing the upper frame too. It's not easy, but doable and requires a lot of patience and creative manipulation.

I had similar issue with a fully up window on drivers side, the gear tooth got worn AND window motor died.

With upper frame removed the window has room to move about a lot more, and you then remove the window winding mechanism from the door then move the whole assembly about until you can just see the two upper bolts to remove the windowThat is the metal strip that clamps the window).
Once the window is removed, the fully extended winder mechanism is then a lot more free to be moved about to get it out of the door.

If the bolts holding the motor are loose the motor runs off the side of the big gear and breaks the weld. Ask me how I know.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by AK83

not necessarily!

You can also remove the mechanism by removing the upper frame too. It's not easy, but doable and requires a lot of patience and creative manipulation.

I had similar issue with a fully up window on drivers side, the gear tooth got worn AND window motor died.

With upper frame removed the window has room to move about a lot more, and you then remove the window winding mechanism from the door then move the whole assembly about until you can just see the two upper bolts to remove the windowThat is the metal strip that clamps the window).
Once the window is removed, the fully extended winder mechanism is then a lot more free to be moved about to get it out of the door.

Hi Arthur, and thanks for your reply to my question.
So that I am clear on this, you mean the window frame that forms the upper part of the door, and surrounds the glass when it is fully up, right?
As I recall, the very bottom of the "legs" of this frame are held by two bolts at the very bottom, inside the bottom of the door cavity.
Also, by one Torx screw higher up, on each of the front and rear edges of the door.
Finally, one bolt just under the external door mirror.
Are you saying that after releasing these five fasteners, the upper frame (consisting essentially of the "velvet" channel in which the edge of the glass slides) can be pulled up and out of the door, leaving the glass and the regulator in place?

Then, there is enough room to wriggle and manipulate the regulator and glass together, until it is possible to separate them.
It would firstly be necessary to undo the 4 or 5 bolts that hold the regulator (with its motor) to the inside of the inner metal door skin - correct?
I'm guessing that undoing those bolts allows you to lower the regulator and glass to the bottom of the door cavity.

I am concerned that if the regulator, or the drive rack and pinion is jammed and cannot articulate, then it may not be possible to collapse (fold down) the regulator, which has to be done in order to get it out of the door cavity.

Can you give me any extra pointers before I take this job on, please?

Cheers, Andrew

Originally Posted by PhilipA

If the bolts holding the motor are loose the motor runs off the side of the big gear and breaks the weld. Ask me how I know.
Regards PhilipA

Hi Philip,

I'd be interested in any further info on how you went about getting everything out of the door when you had this experience.
Would you please see my reply to AK83 and give me any pointers that occur?

Thanks, Andrew

Dunno if these help:

Image 11-12-2022 at 5.15 pm.jpg
Image 11-12-2022 at 5.16 pm.jpg

As per the above you do not have to remove the window frame.
You have to lower the window to about half way and hold it with duct tape over the top of the frame and then you can get to the bolts and the window regulator and motor can be extracted from the gap at the bottom.
Regards PhilipA
In my case much to my surprise the big crescent gear fell out into the bottom of the door which later made things easier.
When you refit you do not have to be exact with the position of the motor on the gear as the BCU stops automatically at top and bottom , just ensur e that you are roughly correct with the gear about half way when the window is half way .

I think I then pushed the glass right up and held it with duct tape after I disconnected the regulator, to give room.

there is a guide roller which breaks and causes the mechanism to cease operating.

I replaced the roller on both front doors on my d2. British Offroad had them in stock.

some one in the forum was going to print them.

this may or may not be the cause of your problem.