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Thread: CDL Dash Light.

  1. #1
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    CDL Dash Light.

    Hi Team, im in the process of fitting a D1 CDL lever to my 99 D2 TD5 Manual. Ive been activating the CDL with a spanner when on the tracks and assume its working (sick of crawling through mud). If i put it on the driveway, lock the CDL I can feel the wheel grabbing, grinding etc (yes I know thats bad but I know of no other way to know if its locked).

    My problem is I can not get the dash light to work. I have pulled the switch out of the transfer case and if I activate it by pressing it in with my thumb the light on the dash works. To me this says the switch and wiring are in working order. I have been playing with the depth of the switch (someone said it may be in too deep) from deepest and loosening bit by bit but cant get it on.

    A couple of questions:
    1. is it possible my CDL is not locking (the seems great on the few basic tracks ive done so I assumed it was fine added to the grinding in the driveway)

    2. If though its activating manually with my thumb is it possible I need a new switch as for what ever reason its not making contact (not really sure how it all works in there)

    Ive just waited 2 weeks for some parts and my mrs is getting grumpy about only having 1 car. Does any one have any other suggestions?

    Thanks
    Mat

  2. #2
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    Dont the D2's have a switch on the centre diff?
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Dont the D2's have a switch on the centre diff?
    Well yeah. Ive pulled it out and compressed the button by hand and it works fine when testing it. just not when installed.

  4. #4
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    It sounds to me that you have over adjusted the switch and it is stopping the CDL to fully engage.

    The switch acts on the selector shaft for the CDL and there is a longish ramp that the switch tip rides up to make contact.

    if you over adjust the switch it may stop the selector shaft from fully moving forward, although one would think that the light would be on all the time. Maybe it is jamming sideways.

    I would try back in off the switch until it just contacts with the CDL engaged . you can do this with a multimeter on resistance.

    You do realise that you have to turn the ignition and lock the diff in a sequence for the light to come on on pre 2003. I cannot remember which way but I think it is start up then engage CDL.
    Regards PhilipA

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    It sounds to me that you have over adjusted the switch and it is stopping the CDL to fully engage.

    The switch acts on the selector shaft for the CDL and there is a longish ramp that the switch tip rides up to make contact.

    if you over adjust the switch it may stop the selector shaft from fully moving forward, although one would think that the light would be on all the time. Maybe it is jamming sideways.

    I would try back in off the switch until it just contacts with the CDL engaged . you can do this with a multimeter on resistance.

    You do realise that you have to turn the ignition and lock the diff in a sequence for the light to come on on pre 2003. I cannot remember which way but I think it is start up then engage CDL.
    Regards PhilipA
    Thanks mate. ill give that a try. So u reckon engage the cdl, then start screwing in the switch until I get it to light up? I might have to figure out how to use the multi-meter cuz its a pain putting those plugs on and off.

    And yeah thats my understanding, have the engine running then activate it.

  6. #6
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    Thanks mate. ill give that a try. So u reckon engage the cdl, then start screwing in the switch until I get it to light up?
    Yes
    With the proviso that you jack up a front wheel then turn the driveshaft/wheel until you hear/feel the CDL clunk into place. You have to be in neutral position in the transfer case.

    The selector shaft is spring loaded so unless the dogs are fully engaged the shaft may not be in the fully locked position.

    BTW there is a detent on the shaft near the switch which is a ball bearing with a spring behind it and a grub screw on top. This should not be fully wound in but in a position that you can feel the shaft locking in position. If the grub screw is too tight the switch may never get to the top of the ramp.
    Regards PhilipA

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Yes
    With the proviso that you jack up a front wheel then turn the driveshaft/wheel until you hear/feel the CDL clunk into place. You have to be in neutral position in the transfer case.

    The selector shaft is spring loaded so unless the dogs are fully engaged the shaft may not be in the fully locked position.

    BTW there is a detent on the shaft near the switch which is a ball bearing with a spring behind it and a grub screw on top. This should not be fully wound in but in a position that you can feel the shaft locking in position. If the grub screw is too tight the switch may never get to the top of the ramp.
    Regards PhilipA
    question mate, should the switch have an extra nut on it? as in the switch has a nut attached to it that does not turn independently of the switch. Then there is another nut which looks like u use to secure the depth of the switch?

  8. #8
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    Yes.
    Well I don't whether they are all the same. I have an aftermarket one on mine and AFAIR it has a second nut. But you could use Loctite.
    Regards PhilipA

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Yes.
    Regards PhilipA
    Thanks for ur help mate. im useless with cars. IM chucking in the towel. Ill put it all back together and not worry about the light for now and take it to a mechanic at tax time

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matg43 View Post
    question mate, should the switch have an extra nut on it? as in the switch has a nut attached to it that does not turn independently of the switch. Then there is another nut which looks like u use to secure the depth of the switch?
    Yes, adjust the switch with that nut as to go deeper a bit unill the warning comes on then tighten it
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