Thread: TD5 D2a stalling issue

I'd be opening the ECU and cleaning it internally with contact cleaner too, that's a serious amount of oil.

Thanks guys.
Fitted a new injector harness and rocker cover gasket, knocked up a quick EGR pipe and blank - fitted that and left the EGR on the bench. Cleaned the engine-ECU loom as best I could.
The roughness at 1800-2000rpm has gone now, but sounds like I’ll need to rinse and repeat a few times before it’s all gone.
I’ll organise some electronic safe sealant and contact cleaner then open the ECU to clean that out.

I’ll need to get back under the bonnet shortly anyway to replace the radiator as I found a long pink OAT crust down the side where the tubes join the end cap.
I got some silicon inter cooler hoses when I got the injector harness from Roverlord but might be a good time to just do a full coolant hose replacement when the radiator is out

The stalling has reduced, but could just be that today is a bit warmer. Still sometimes stalls when changed from park to drive/rev but most times it just stumbles badly then picks up.
Less noticeable with the A/C off.
I noticed there is a bit of exhaust smoke when it happens.

Steve

It looks like you have probably found the problem, but the comment of smoke leads me to ask:
- What colour smoke?
- If it is not black, but grey/white then it might be worth checking your last fuel docket. A recent unpleasant experience is still vivid in my mind - that of a fill-up with petrol by the missus.

If you had a few litres top-up with petrol your fuel may now be mostly diesel, but still causing problems.
I my case it was about 65 L of petrol to fill the tank. She then drove about 1km home with a warm engine and noticed nothing (probably driving on diesel in the system before getting anything from the tank to the injectors).
But would not start the next day when cold.
Through persistence I did get it to start - running rough, white/grey smoke. Running roughly but improving with temperature increase and less smoke at idle, more smoke when trying to rev along with rougher running.

Just a thought, as the story sounds a little familiar.

Thanks Lyle.
Definitely black smoke.

Steve

Do a simple test just to rule it out: Disco 2 - Check Td5 fuel pump HP | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

BTW I saw a UK post a long time ago showing a way to shorten the drain out process for the loom from the head plug to the ECU.

The bloke cut the wires at their lowest point , put solder on the wires on the ECU side, then crimped a connector onto the ends of the wires leaving a little gap on the head side.

Seeing the oil works along the wires in a capilliary action , the oil drops out at the join. BTW there should be a rubber gasket that seals the ECU plug and stops oil from entering the ECU. Seeing the injector wires are the lowest on a TD5 there should not be oil in the ECU. However if you spray it with contact cleaner with the gasket in place it will swell and fail to seal.

The real fix is to make sure the under rocker loom is fully sealed at the plug .

I did mods to my old under rocker loom years ago by doing the solder bit and crimp bit, and sealed the plug with epoxy, but I have never had to revisit the loom I put in about 5 years ago to replace that loom. It has been draining for 5 years.
Land Rover is one of the few car companies that can arrange an oil leak from a wiring loom.
Regards PhilipA

Thanks Phillip. Unfortunately I’ve already discovered the swelling seal issue in the ECU plug

Opened the ECU, tiny bit of oil at the lowest corner but nothing that I would expect would cause an issue. Cleaned and resealed it tonight and will refit tomorrow.
Hopefully I haven’t inadvertently killed it !!

Sierrafery - Doesn’t sounds like the HP side of the pump as it’s fine under power. I’ll still do the check to rule it out.

I threw a new air filter in as the old one was noticeably dusty but no change.

To me, with the way the revs drop when changing into drive/rev, and then the black smoke, it’s almost like the engine doesn’t have the power to cope with the load. The smoke suggests it’s getting plenty of fuel, so wondering if it could actually be a transmission issue - not engine.

Seems to drive fine once it’s off idle (apart from the usual gutless off boost trait)

Steve

check cylinder balances, map sensor readings with your nanocom , also worth dropping the belt and checking pulleys etc