Thread: TD5 Starter Solenoid gone, any spare part in Sydney?

Originally Posted by Tinggu

In spite of all the helpful advice, Youtubes etc I did not have a wobble extention and lost a lot of skin not being able to get it out.
In the end I lost a lot more skin putting in the solenoid in situ. Hateful job but is possible..

So you’ve added the tools to your shopping list for next time

Originally Posted by Tombie

So you’ve added the tools to your shopping list for next time

What’s this fancy proper tools bit - sounds like just a mere flesh wound to get the job done.

All self-maintained LR’s get imprinted with the owners DNA through blood transfusions. It is how we bond for life with our machines.

Well. I was using that 70A relay to start my Landcruiser Troopy 4.2L 1HZ diesel starter motor with a very easy start in a click and not even feel a warm relay.

Men, I am totally wrong with my TD5. I quickly learnt the 70A relay is NOT good to start this engine even in a short time. It started once, slow and heavy start, but got very hot relay so I rather not use it for this purpose. It really used a loads of power to start this small 2.5L engine.

Originally Posted by maxperformance

Well. I was using that 70A relay to start my Landcruiser Troopy 4.2L 1HZ diesel starter motor with a very easy start in a click and not even feel a warm relay.

Men, I am totally wrong with my TD5. I quickly learnt the 70A relay is NOT good to start this engine even in a short time. It started once, slow and heavy start, but got very hot relay so I rather not use it for this purpose. It really used a loads of power to start this small 2.5L engine.

Wiring the relay into which portion of the starter?
The solenoid (which is what failed on yours and is most likely just the 2 contacts and plunger) needs a small kick to move forwards. This does 2 functions - one is drive the Pinion forward to engage the gear with the flywheel / flex plate ring gear. The second is to make the circuit for the high current to turn the armiture of the starter itself (the High current side).

Without the pinion moving forward you wont get engagment.

Where was the relay being placed? between both circuits - using the solenoid to drive the pinion out AND power to spin the starter? I've metered a toyota starter years ago when trouble shooting - theyre good for pulling 300+ amps.

All starters have a 35mm2 or thereabouts power feed for that very reason. A starter and a winch motor are very closely related.

Originally Posted by maxperformance

Well. I was using that 70A relay to start my Landcruiser Troopy 4.2L 1HZ diesel starter motor with a very easy start in a click and not even feel a warm relay.

Men, I am totally wrong with my TD5. I quickly learnt the 70A relay is NOT good to start this engine even in a short time. It started once, slow and heavy start, but got very hot relay so I rather not use it for this purpose. It really used a loads of power to start this small 2.5L engine.

Good to learn something new.

The starter motor is a nominal 2kW motor, so at 10-12v that’s 167-200 amps but yes could pull 300+ amps.

But where exactly did you connect the relay? Were you trying to run the supply line through a relay?

Originally Posted by maxperformance

Hi mates.

Finally it is completely gone at 295k kms. Can not start it this morning.

I was looking at some closest stores on eBay in Sydney and they all claimed their location right in Sydney but all of their original registered address were all from Hong Kong so hopeless. How could they do this btw?

If anyone could come to fix replace the solenoid or can sell me one set that's much appreciated.

Mine is td5 2003 Manual.

Thanks a lot for reading and sharing.

James

Just pull the starter motor out then remove the solenoid contact plates and clean them, this will give you another six months use at least.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Wiring the relay into which portion of the starter?
The solenoid (which is what failed on yours and is most likely just the 2 contacts and plunger) needs a small kick to move forwards. This does 2 functions - one is drive the Pinion forward to engage the gear with the flywheel / flex plate ring gear. The second is to make the circuit for the high current to turn the armiture of the starter itself (the High current side).

Without the pinion moving forward you wont get engagment.

Where was the relay being placed? between both circuits - using the solenoid to drive the pinion out AND power to spin the starter? I've metered a toyota starter years ago when trouble shooting - theyre good for pulling 300+ amps.

All starters have a 35mm2 or thereabouts power feed for that very reason. A starter and a winch motor are very closely related.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Good to learn something new.

But where exactly did you connect the relay? Were you trying to run the supply line through a relay?

I fitted 70A relay last night between my battery and other side contact of solenoid which bypassed the failure solenoid. I had success to do it from the top standing look down to unbolt the 13mm bolt then bolt it back with a new wire (in first 3 photos).

This morning I grabbed a 250A kill switch (last photo) from SupercheapAuto store and replace that 70A relay with proper battery terminals.

Now she fires up straight away like she was IF I turn key to start, then turn kill switch and she fires instantly.

I will be able to drive her until solenoid kit comes and have enough spare time to work on it, in the meantime I will try to love the way I could fire her up now, what a very manual and funny style to turn a 4WD. Lol.

Originally Posted by pjh4159

Just pull the starter motor out then remove the solenoid contact plates and clean them, this will give you another six months use at least.

Yes, in days of yore I used to repair this type of crap. A trick then was to remove the moving contact from the plunger and turn it over so that the unused good face was now facing the fixed contacts. Dress up the fixed contacts a bit, even to the extent of filing them down a bit to make them flat again.