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Thread: Wheel nuts, road Vs spare

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by thai_tiger View Post
    I got a spare one for you but probably cost more to send than one from local wreckers
    Thanks, I've got a couple.
    Nice to note that the studs are harder metal than then wheel nuts.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    Yes, the rear door spare wheel carrier studs are a different length to the wheel hub studs. The wheel carrier had to accomodate steel wheels or alloy wheels depending on model year range level . My 1999 D2 was delivered with 4 alloys and a steel spare.
    Not sure I understand this. Surely the hubs had to accomodate both wheel types as well.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Not sure I understand this. Surely the hubs had to accomodate both wheel types as well.
    I agree, I thought the steel wheels had a totally different wheel nut.

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #14
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    The nut will never bottom out on the hub, IIRC the correct torque is 120 ft/lb, which the hub and stud are easily able to cope with.
    The spare is mounted to a flimsy bit of tin, by comparison. The longer nuts are designed to bottom out, preventing pulling the studs through the lighter material. The spare does not require the same amount of torque as the road wheels.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    The nut will never bottom out on the hub, IIRC the correct torque is 120 ft/lb, which the hub and stud are easily able to cope with.
    The spare is mounted to a flimsy bit of tin, by comparison. The longer nuts are designed to bottom out, preventing pulling the studs through the lighter material. The spare does not require the same amount of torque as the road wheels.
    Fair enough if the wheel is an alloy, but my D1 has steel wheels and nuts like Slunnie posted. No bottoming out on those. Interesting...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Fair enough if the wheel is an alloy, but my D1 has steel wheels and nuts like Slunnie posted. No bottoming out on those. Interesting...
    Are these hollow?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #17
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    It's only the threads that aren't full length with the wheel nuts, you can just use a tap to extend the thread further so they can be used on the spare wheel carrier. With a little care you can run the tap down just far enough to make little dimple in the chrome shell so you can ID them.

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