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Thread: Fan keeps eating radiators

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    .....

    Wading plugs... don't forget the timing cover one in a TD1, especially if you are not the first vehicle to cross and the water is now full of silt.
    I put in a brass t-piece in mine(still there)
    Originally because front main was leaking erratically .. it did and then didn't and then did ..

    Anyhow, on the t-piece is a tap to drain the oil build up on one side, and on the other was a bung to fit a clear hose(to see the oil build up) as a breather .. hose goes up to vent out near the expansion tank, and then hooked downwards to stop water getting in(as best it can).

    Hasn't caused a problem in the 5 years and 100K klms its been there. Have done a few river crossings ... longest was the Wonnangatta just past Dargo.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #42
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    Am I missing something here? Surely if it's a viscous fan just tying off the blades to stop it spinning temporarily is easier than removing belts or a plate made for between the fan and rad (which must be carried somewhere also). A crossing that deep generally the screen across the front is a good idea depending on the vehicle for a number of reasons other than protecting the radiator.

    I get what your saying about a 21 year old not wanting to stop so I hope it works for him.

    My experience is with the very solid steel fan in a series 3 and I've not done anything quite that deep in my other car.
    Lakey

    1976 SWB Series III Soft Top (AKA the big Meccano set)

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I put in a brass t-piece in mine(still there)
    Originally because front main was leaking erratically .. it did and then didn't and then did ..

    Anyhow, on the t-piece is a tap to drain the oil build up on one side, and on the other was a bung to fit a clear hose(to see the oil build up) as a breather .. hose goes up to vent out near the expansion tank, and then hooked downwards to stop water getting in(as best it can).

    Hasn't caused a problem in the 5 years and 100K klms its been there. Have done a few river crossings ... longest was the Wonnangatta just past Dargo.
    I like that idea. Run it up to the gearbox/tc and diff breather manifold I'll fit one day...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I like that idea. Run it up to the gearbox/tc and diff breather manifold I'll fit one day...
    Or airbox .. I thought about the airbox too .. or snorkel tube.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    I’m pretty sure that it’s coolant that keeps the engine cool not water, but I knew what you meant, just as I’m sure that you knew what I meant.
    Peace
    pedantic much?
    before we had glycol in engines as a standard practice, water was the coolant.
    over to you!
    LAND ROVER;
    HELPING PUT OIL BACK IN THE GROUND FOR 70 YEARS
    CARS DON'T GET ANY "GREENER" THAT.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by barney View Post
    pedantic much?
    before we had glycol in engines as a standard practice, water was the coolant.
    over to you!
    Pedantic - yes, I am guilty
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Simply remove the serpentine belt PRIOR to entering the water and replace it after you get through.

    YES I know it is "old school" But this works

    Also "Old School" is the old pre diesel dodge of hanging a tarp over the front to stop water pressure killing the engine. It was done mainly for ignition reasons & to prevent sucking water in but could be the go to action for your son. Doesn't take long to drape & fix a Bunning's Blue Tarp in place.

    Worth a try seeing how Fan Blades & Rads are so expensive. Maybe even a combination of some of the above lurks?


    BTW, that photo shows the vehicle wading above it's recommended wading Depth anyway. It used to be top of wheel arch cutout was max, or 70/ 80 cm Approx. It must have been so for a good reason.

    EDIT. Apologies to posters. i have just noticed the Tarp idea was "floated" in Posts 5, 14, 37, 38 & 39 We can't all be wrong. To be honest I didn't start out at Post #1.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    BTW, that photo shows the vehicle wading above it's recommended wading Depth anyway. It used to be top of wheel arch cutout was max, or 70/ 80 cm Approx. It must have been so for a good reason.
    Pretty sure I see a snorkel in that photo so that tends to increase wading depth considerably as it's usually the air intake level that dictates wading depth in most cars me thinks.
    Lakey

    1976 SWB Series III Soft Top (AKA the big Meccano set)

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakey View Post
    Pretty sure I see a snorkel in that photo so that tends to increase wading depth considerably as it's usually the air intake level that dictates wading depth in most cars me thinks.

    I take your point, but is a bit irrelevant if it isn't the cause of stuffing up the fan blades > rad.

    So, it doesn't spew water to the intake but exterior damage such as we have seen here could still occur regardless. IMHO of course.

  10. #50
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    The TD5 fan was upgraded with much stiffer blades, possibly for the D2a. My 99 D2 had soft blades but my 03 D2a's were quite stiff.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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