Thread: Buying a td5 disco

And if not, it’s a great place for an ARB compressor.

Originally Posted by onebob

If you have the factory CD stacker you will find it in the little cubby hole under the driver seat. Access is via a fold down flap in the trim panel behind your heals when you are seated …..

Originally Posted by simonmelb

And if not, it’s a great place for an ARB compressor.

I looked at an earlier model that had an aftermarket cdl pull cable fitted there, PO thought it was stock.

Originally Posted by AK83

No direct experience, but auto ECU should be fine .. not so sure about BCU tho.

I'm still wondering whether to go manual or auto - prefer driving manual (also no electrics for the gb) but auto might be the better option for towing. Manuals are also way harder to find.

Originally Posted by JoshV12345

I'm still wondering whether to go manual or auto - prefer driving manual (also no electrics for the gb) but auto might be the better option for towing. Manuals are also way harder to find.

No - go auto - you can always drive it as a 4 speed manual if you get withdrawal symptoms. Far more relaxed driving, rarely gives significant problems, and better in most off road scenarios. 4HP22 is an easy box to repair/replace and usually good for about 250K km.

Only hassle is if you often drive at about 70 kmph, the bloody thing doesn't lock up in 4th (overdrive) until 80, then will stay locked up until you drop below 70 again.

Originally Posted by simonmelb

And if not, it’s a great place for an ARB compressor.

Agree totally.
I wouldn’t (and didn’t) recommend it….

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

....

Only hassle is if you often drive at about 70 kmph, the bloody thing doesn't lock up in 4th (overdrive) until 80, then will stay locked up until you drop below 70 again.

Find an auto ECU out of a V8, and contact Shack to mod the tune in the ECU(assuming an NNN) for the cruise control to function "normally". How it'd work with an MSB ECU, I can't advise, sorry.

But with a remapped ECU and the V8 trans ECU, it locks up easily at about 55k/h on light throttle in 4th and 40 k/h held in 3rd(which is mainly how I drive on my work commute).

I dare say those lockup points would be far too low for a std tune TD5.

I don't hold in in locked 4th tho at less than about 70-ish, as it feels like the torque converter in the TD5 can't handle it that low. It may require a V8 torque converter mod to work well less than that and locked up all the time.

When I first changed to the V8 TCU, I used to commute along a freeway which was pretty much all 80k/h roadworks, and reality was more like 70-60-70 ish speeds. 4th locked was fine here, and I had no real problems driving this way.
I changed work, and of course now that freeway is all proper freeway, but my new commute is through suburb after suburb and maybe 20k/h average!
Much less klms tho, but all stop start(mainly stop!) .. hence why I use the hold in in 3rd method 99% of the time .. 'around town'.

3rd locked at 60k/h is 1750RPM, and the tune on the TD5 as it is currently, feels like most of the torque is made about at that point, so millimeters of right foot translate into quick acceleration without the slippage and consequent engine noise.

It's a hard task having to get back into my auto D1 tdi.

I haven't driven a manual TD5, but have driven a manual TDi. I much prefer the auto in the overall way it drives as a TDi, and I can only assume the TD5 auto vs manual the overall experience would be a bit better again.

Originally Posted by AK83

I haven't driven a manual TD5, but have driven a manual TDi. I much prefer the auto in the overall way it drives as a TDi, and I can only assume the TD5 auto vs manual the overall experience would be a bit better again.

I'm the opposite, I've never actually driven a td5 auto, only auto LR's I've driven have been range rover classics so probably not something to compare to. I'm just not a fan of the typical late 90's/early 2000's slush boxes. Do td5 auto's feel the same as these?

I'm hopefully test driving a few auto's in the next week or 2.

I guess I'm just not familiar with them if something goes wrong I wouldn't know what to do, at least a manual is simple and could probably get you home.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

No - go auto - you can always drive it as a 4 speed manual if you get withdrawal symptoms. Far more relaxed driving, rarely gives significant problems, and better in most off road scenarios. 4HP22 is an easy box to repair/replace and usually good for about 250K km.

Most cars I see for sale have around this amount of k's - or more. Would that mean that I should budget for an auto replacement fairly quickly? Do auto's normally fail quickly or do they die slowly over a period of time? Like would it be something I could pick up in the test drive or could it drive totally fine then next week go bang.