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Thread: D2 auto trans repair/replacement

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
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    What I have always done regarding cooler.

    If transmission was really bad I would remove and flush with solvent.(petrol, brake clean etc)

    After refitting I would leave the return line back to transmission disconnected and attach a hose feeding to a container.

    I would then run the engine whilst pumping new oil into trans. I even do this as a method to do a complete oil change as this also gets oil from convertor.

    As for the green goo you purchased, vasaline is fine for using as an assembly grease on an auto.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Geelong, VIC
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    Thanks Dave.
    I ended up just flushing about 4L of clean fluid through the cooler with the hoses still connected. Had some clear hose on the outlet so I could see what it looked like. Definitely very yuk to start with but cleared up after a couple of liters.

    Picked up the torque converter on Saturday. Apparently they had to source a replacement top half for it as it was broken internally. The guy that was there when I picked it up wasn’t the one who did it so couldn’t give me any more info.

    Transmission is back in the car now and transfer case refitted.
    Transfer still needs an overhaul and the case sleeved but that’s a job for ‘Ron.

    All going well I’ll know by the weekend whether my first auto rebuild has been a success or not.
    Fingers crossed!

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
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    We have drive!!
    Not sure whether to be happy, surprised, relieved - or worried about how long before it craps itself!!!
    At the moment though it’s moving under its own power, shifts smoothly, and isn’t making any nasty noises. Only driven a couple of k’s so far, and not above 80kmh but seems to be working as intended.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Hello Steve
    Congrats on the rebuild. I have a question about the internal differences between V8 & TD5 box. I have a V8 box sitting round that I thought I'd rebuild as my TD5 box is starting to get a bit unhappy with slow traffic upshifts from 2nd to 3rd. I know the torque converter is different and I suspect the valve body is but my thought was to change the steels/frictions bearings etc in the V8 box and then add the TD5 valve body and torque converter, thus getting myself ahead off the rebuild. Reading your thread and I noted the differences you pointed out.

    So my question is, is the V8 box worth while hanging onto as a source off clutch drums, planetary gears etc. Are those components the same do you know?

    Cheers, James NZ
    '00 D2 V8 The orange off road truck. 2" lift, made my own rear bumper, still working on the front one
    '03 D2a TD5 The silver on road daily driver

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Thanks James.
    If you’ve got a D2 V8 box I don’t think there’s any difference between the valve bodies but I haven’t done a side by side comparison. I used the original Td5 one. I can’t really imagine why there would be any difference as the rest of the trans is the same, and I’d expect any difference in shift points etc would be done electronically.

    The only things I found different aside from the bell housing and converter was the output shaft, adapter housing, and associated spacer tube.

    My suggestion would be to strip and rebuild the V8 one - just bearing in mind you can’t do the final assembly any further than the first rear assy as you need to fit the longer shaft from the Td5 box.
    Definitely worth doing as it means you can take your time, pull the main bits out then strip and rebuild those individual assemblies one by one. I’d also suggest to fit them back into the case as you go (with the shorter V8 shaft). Just don’t fit the o-ring/washer/circlip (the mongrel small flat one around one of the shafts) when you get to that point as it’s a ***** to remove again and good chance you’ll damage the o-ring. Putting the bits back in seems like extra work but it keeps all the parts nice and clean and together.
    When I realised my screw up fitting the V8 shaft, it really only took me about an hour to pull the guts out, swap the shaft, and put it back together. Probably fair to say it took me longer to find my dummy after spitting it than it did to actually fix the stuff up!

    Oh, and it’s worth spending the time to make a holding fixture so you can stand the case vertically to fit everything. Make it so you can also swing it back to horizontal to fig the valve body.
    Doesn’t have to look pretty - just be functional. Here’s a couple of photos of the one I knocked up. Didn’t quite allow allow fully horizontal but was good enough.
    I had to make mine with a longer bar and clamp it to the workbench as I didn’t have a vice nearby. Holding it in a vice would be easier.






    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
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    Just cross posting this big thread on the topic, as its where Ive posted my rebuild comments too ZF4HP22 do it yourself overhaul

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Well done Steve, great job 👍

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