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Thread: D2 TD5 Transmission

  1. #1
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    D2 TD5 Transmission

    Hello to all daughter is looking at a Td 5 with auto transmission can I get some reviews of these transmissions it has 200,000 kilometres up in service are there any known faults with these. It also has three amigos up but hopefully just a wheel sensor or earthing issue that a bit of time can fix.
    Thanks in advance Gippy

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    Hello to all daughter is looking at a Td 5 with auto transmission can I get some reviews of these transmissions it has 200,000 kilometres up in service are there any known faults with these. It also has three amigos up but hopefully just a wheel sensor or earthing issue that a bit of time can fix.
    Thanks in advance Gippy
    ZF4HP22-4 can of worms opened... IMO it's a good trans, provided it has been serviced scrupulously, and it either hasn't towed, or if it has towed it has done so correctly. There are many threads, containing countless varying opinions, about this topic. My personal experiences have left me with a jaded opinion, but in truth the vast majority of D2s are auto. I wouldn't let it put you off, but I would recommend an inspection before purchase, depending on the $$. 200,000 is nothing, or it's a lot, according to the treatment.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
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    The auto on these vehicles is probably the weak point.

    Part of the issue is if they have been used for towing they often don't reach a point where the converter locks, this in turn creates a lot of heat and quickly.

    If it hasn't towed and the auto has been serviced it might be ok... Not many of them failed at 200k km, 300 would be more like it.

    A test drive will help and a nanocom to check the shift adaptions will give SOME indication of the wear in the box.

    I'd drive it until hot (over 7 minutes) and check if the converter locks ok in 3rd and 4th, 65kmh and 80kmh respectively, and also check if it slips under acceleration.

    It would also be good to test drive it from a completely cold start to see how long it takes before you get drive...a couple of days sitting is the best for this test.

    You can also do a stall test but that is really slippery ground on a car you are looking at buying, you could damage the auto and then who pays??

    Unhappiness all round!!!

  4. #4
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    Mine has now done 236KK and operates perfectly,
    One of the major reasons for failure IMHO is that the cooler lines break and the trans runs out of oil. I replaced the cooler lines at 220Kk and one of the crimps was failing. I suggest that this should be a preventative maintenance item.
    I have a friend who has one that has done 400KK . he recently asked me if he should do a fluid change as it had not been done for 200KK. I sucked my teeth a bit and said it is dangerous. He did the change and it goes well. ( much to my surprise.)
    Another failure is when the front drive shaft is neglected and a UJ breaks and smashes the transmission.
    Another is that the LH aircon drain drops water directly on the XYZ switch. Extend the drain with a bit of hose.
    It is true that if the trans is not operated correctly while towing that it will probably fail, but ask a Toyota or Ford owner and it is the same! I have towed a lot with mine although not exceedingly heavy at first a1000KG camper trailer around OZ and now a 1800KG van. I always concentrate on TC lock and use full synthetic fluid and change at maybe 40KK intervals..
    I guess the trouble is that you do not know the history. A good start would be if the fluid has been changed a few times.
    Regards PhilipA

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Mine has now done 236KK and operates perfectly,
    One of the major reasons for failure IMHO is that the cooler lines break and the trans runs out of oil. I replaced the cooler lines at 220Kk and one of the crimps was failing. I suggest that this should be a preventative maintenance item.
    I have a friend who has one that has done 400KK . he recently asked me if he should do a fluid change as it had not been done for 200KK. I sucked my teeth a bit and said it is dangerous. He did the change and it goes well. ( much to my surprise.)
    Another failure is when the front drive shaft is neglected and a UJ breaks and smashes the transmission.
    Another is that the LH aircon drain drops water directly on the XYZ switch. Extend the drain with a bit of hose.
    It is true that if the trans is not operated correctly while towing that it will probably fail, but ask a Toyota or Ford owner and it is the same! I have towed a lot with mine although not exceedingly heavy at first a1000KG camper trailer around OZ and now a 1800KG van. I always concentrate on TC lock and use full synthetic fluid and change at maybe 40KK intervals..
    I guess the trouble is that you do not know the history. A good start would be if the fluid has been changed a few times.
    Regards PhilipA
    Pretty comprehensive as to the issues of the boxes, mine have 273 and 310K's on the boxes and they change smoothly and work very well, the off road mode -M- used with the D2 works fantastically if you are going off road. Upgrading the cooler and insuring the lines are in good order could be a priority as many will testify the fittings do come loose and lead to loss of fluid and hence damage, this is more age than k's.

    The issue for mine is that you are not able to check the oil level easily, or see the state of the oil in the box as it does not have a dip stick as standard (is able to upgraded). If you are looking to buy and getting an inspection done, it requires getting underneath and taking off the filler plug to get an idea of the state of the oil. The filter kits and gaskets are surprisingly cheap but then again the box itself has been used in lots of vehicles, my 86 BMW 635CSi has basically the same box. ZF 4HP22 transmission - Wikipedia the designation 4HP22'EH' is merely the electronic control that the D2 has.
    2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
    2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
    1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
    1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil

  6. #6
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    At about 280k my box started to misbehave in that sometimes it declined to engage when moving from P to D or R, a check on the nanocom showed that the appropriate solenoids were operating but the box wasn’t actually engaging. Shuffling the lever between P and R/D/3/2/1 would eventually get it working. Changing the fluid twice did nothing to help so I went looking for another box to rebuild in slow time; however nothing came up. I put up with it for about another 10k but then it really started misbehaving and I ended up getting the box replaced at British Off-Road in Chevalum.

    Mine had been used for towing at some point in in its life but well before I bought it.

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