Depending on how much you need to take off or has previously been taken off the head, you may need to machine the inlet manifold.
What a mission. One side done. Looks like a head skim would be a good idea and one of the valves looks like it isn't sealing...so hopefully they fix that too.
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2001 Disco D2 V8
2008 Defender 90
2013 Disco SDV6
Depending on how much you need to take off or has previously been taken off the head, you may need to machine the inlet manifold.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Second side was much easier.
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2001 Disco D2 V8
2008 Defender 90
2013 Disco SDV6
Out of interest, what method(s) did you apply to get that tough bolt out?
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Heat (but 2deg C so ineffective), WD40 (ineffective as couldn't get to threads), hammer and brass punch (ineffective?). 12 sided 5/8 socket cheap ones and a sidchrome (ineffective and ruined), air and battery rattle guns tightening and untightening (ineffective?), Impact socket breaker bar (750mm) and tirfor handle fully extended 1.5mish) and elbow grease (effective).
Tightest bolts known to man.
2001 Disco D2 V8
2008 Defender 90
2013 Disco SDV6
When reassembling use thread sealant. I have a tin of “Holden” three sealant that I bought after being recommended on this site AFAIR.
Mate I would spring for a set of ARP head studs if you can. Cheers
Yes mate. Works nice like. Cheers
Not sure if this would apply to the Rover V8, but I have an old car with an alloy head held down with steel studs. The first time I attempted to remove the head, the nuts came off easily, but I could not shift the head due to corrosion between the studs and the head, so if you do go for studs, some sort of anti seize precautions may be needed.
Cheers,
Woolly.
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