Thread: Diff installation queries.

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

Originally Posted by James NZ

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

Bingo Range Rover P38 LRT-54-012 Tool by SCKStef - Thingiverse



LRT-54-012_002.jpg

Originally Posted by James NZ

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth.

Seal depth sets itself in the housing in this case.

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.

Originally Posted by biggin

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.

Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

LRT--.jpg

Made at work.
Now to build a Spigot removal tool or a large socket and washers

Originally Posted by Tins

Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

Originally Posted by biggin

Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

Bugger.....