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Thread: Diff installation queries.

  1. #1
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    Diff installation queries.

    I have acquired a diff. A few queries.

    Use RTV or paper gasket?
    How do you get the half shafts back into the diff? Just jiggle and pray?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    I have acquired a diff. A few queries.

    Use RTV or paper gasket?
    How do you get the half shafts back into the diff? Just jiggle and pray?
    RTV. Something like Permatex Blue.
    Yes, but be careful of the seal... ask me how I know. If you can find something to support the shaft so it is sort of central to the seal it's better. They go in fairly easily.
    No need to remove the hub from the axle, just be careful of the ABS sensor.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    RTV. Something like Permatex Blue.
    Yes, but be careful of the seal... ask me how I know. If you can find something to support the shaft so it is sort of central to the seal it's better. They go in fairly easily.
    No need to remove the hub from the axle, just be careful of the ABS sensor.
    Ta for the RTV

    I was thinking of changing the seals. The oil went out somewhere.
    There is enough movement to remove the front diff? I though the CV joint would get in the way.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Ta for the RTV

    I was thinking of changing the seals. The oil went out somewhere.
    There is enough movement to remove the front diff? I thought the CV joint would get in the way.
    The CVs fit out through the hub carrier, but I repeat the caution about the ABS sensor. I found it best to pass that through behind before pulling the axles out.
    It’s not a difficult job. Calliper off, disk off, undo the four bolts that hold the hub carrier on, Allen bolts for the ABS sensor and slide the axles out.
    The seals are also easy enough if you have a tool to knock them back in square. It’s very easy to damage them if you just try to knock them in with a hammer. If you have a ball joint tool set there’s a good substitute in that.
    Bit of loctite on the bolts and done. Hardest bit for me was undoing the screws on the disks.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    Oh yeah, pay attention to the tiny O ring on the ABS sensor. Easy to damage it if you don’t know it’s there, and you need it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    Some of the second hand diffs are a bit loosie goosy.
    Setting the crown to pinion backlash / contact patch is not too hard. (i've never done pinion height though)

    If it feels a bit rubbish - have a go.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FNQLR View Post
    Some of the second hand diffs are a bit loosie goosy.
    Setting the crown to pinion backlash / contact patch is not too hard. (i've never done pinion height though)

    If it feels a bit rubbish - have a go.
    Yes. The one I got seems to have set up a bit of a vibration. I guess I’ll be pulling it out again when the weather gets better.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Hi

    I've just recently done the seals, so would like to add...
    Disassemble as Tins said but I didn't remove the abs sensor. The hub & sensor does come out of the steering knuckle in one piece if your careful. If you do remove the abs sensor a little bit of copper coat before reinstalling works wonders, don't ask me why. I can tell you that installing them dry will lead to replacing it later in my experience.

    To install my seals I used a 6 sided 52mm socket that I have for doing series/Disco1 front hub nuts. The seal fits perfectly using the mud shield part of the seal to hold it in place. A 1/2" drive 300mm extension and your favourite hammer completes the job. Hopefully the pics help with the explanation.

    Cheers, James NZ
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '00 D2 V8 The orange off road truck. 2" lift, made my own rear bumper, still working on the front one
    '03 D2a TD5 The silver on road daily driver

  9. #9
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    It's likely I'm a little clumsier than you, I damaged the seal with a socket. I used this from my cheap ball joint kit:

    IMG_5887.jpg
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    It's likely I'm a little clumsier than you, I damaged the seal with a socket. I used this from my cheap ball joint kit:

    IMG_5887.jpg
    Clumsier than I? That I doubt. I have a mate who can make a 3d printed part to push the seal in.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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