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Thread: Changing coolant colours/types

  1. #1
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    Changing coolant colours/types

    Another day another question to ask, always appreciating the knowledge of those here!

    After reinstalling rad and intercooler I’ve got a coolant leak from the fuel cooler to rad hose, suspect because I changed to a worm clamp from the factory spring clamp for ease ..

    Plan to drain the coolant this weekend and swap back clamps but also run a radiator flush (penrite)through the system because from advice of others I’ve been running the wrong coolant (penrite green hoat) so intend to refill with penrite blue oat.

    As I’m swapping coolant types I’m concerned about getting all the green out of the system before I put in the blue. Reading many a thread I read about the system totalling 13l and only getting out 8l or something like that.. so that’s a fair amount of green still in the system waiting to mix with the blue which I do not want to do!

    Any advice would, as always, be much appreciated. Cheers fellers

  2. #2
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    to get all the coolant out...

    disconnect a hose to the heater core, put your garden hose into the hose, drain the engine as per normal, seal the engine up then turn on the hose, start the engine, wait a couple of minutes. Done. put the heater hose back on.

    The cooling system is 13ishL from dry, buy your coolant in concentrate and mix it for the correct ratio for 13l but when you add the water to the coolant only add enough to make about 6l to tip into the engine. Then top up in the expansion tank with water using the coke bottle method.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDB5FFidJgY
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUOC498Z5s8

    also the coolant brand and colour is less important than the type OAT and OAT compatible fluids now come in green, red, blue and yellow. And thats just on one shelf of my local supercheap.

    Search around, I strongly reccomend that you purchase a coolant that is available at major service stations and auto suppliers.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Gday blknight, was just in the process of posting a link to a thread where you had been explaining and here you are ! Legend !

    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...g-coolant.html

    Have come to the understanding of different colour coolants etc but being that I’m changing from hoat to oat just want to make sure I get all the hoat out so there’s no mixing there

    So my understanding -

    -Open coolant rail underneath to drain as much as I can
    -close that back up
    -disconnect hose to heater core above exhaust manifold
    -connect garden hose there and turn on while turning engine on
    -after a few minutes turn off engine
    -open coolant rail again and drain
    -close up

    Potentially run through this a couple more times?

    Would drain coolant prior to the above and fill with water and coolant flush and follow those instructions then do the above post that to try get everything out before topping up with concentrate coolant + water then bleed, run, cool , top up again etc

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus;[emoji639
    Changing coolant colours/typesChanging coolant colours/types[emoji6Changing coolant colours/typesChanging coolant colours/types][emoji[emoji6Changing coolant colours/typesChanging coolant colours/types]Changing coolant colours/typesChanging coolant colours/types]Changing coolant colours/types[emoji6Changing coolant colours/typesChanging coolant colours/types]]to get all the coolant out...

    disconnect a hose to the heater core, put your garden hose into the hose, drain the engine as per normal, seal the engine up then turn on the hose, start the engine, wait a couple of minutes. Done. put the heater hose back on.

    Think I’m complicating things , will do the above. Assume water comes out the other hose that is now disconnected and once it’s clear good to go

    Cheers mate!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankdusty View Post
    Think I’m complicating things , will do the above. Assume water comes out the other hose that is now disconnected and once it’s clear good to go

    Cheers mate!
    Yep thats about it, with the engine running, once the water runs clear shut it down, drain what you can easily and mix in the coolant concentrate.

    If you're doing a cooling system flush to descale Do this before you add your cooling system flush, then fill the system as per your flushing agents instructions drain the system repeat the process. Then add your coolant as per its instructions.

    If you're goal is purely to change over the coolant from oat to hoat (or vice versa, jump on the net search up the tech details on your coolant of choice) just do the one flush out and add your new coolant and you may not even need to do this, there are some coolants that are cross compatible, and generally you can mix HOAT with OAT. The biggest offender for cooling system issues is mixing some ethyl glycols with some OATs.

    Penrite Green Hoat is an acceptable coolant for the TD5, but there are other coolants out there that are better, for various definitions of better.

    Red Radiator Corrosion Protector (RCPR)
    and
    Red Premium Long Life Coolant 100% Concentrate (RLL)

    Are my goto as the closest to OEM spec coolant available off the shelf without going to Landrover OEM (overly Excessive Markup) products.

    heres the list Id use from supercheap. in no particular order

    Penrite Red Long Life Anti Freeze / Anti Boil Concentrate Coolant - 5L | Supercheap Auto
    SCA Long Life Red Coolant Concentrate 1 Litre | Supercheap Auto
    Penrite Green Coolant Concentrate Type B - 500ml | Supercheap Auto
    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...re/633613.html
    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...1l/575720.html

    and bluntly, depending on how you're going to use the vehicle and what your requirements are there are arguements to put forward for pretty much every coolant on the shelf at supercheap (or repco, or autobahn or etc)

    Oat is hard to keep in
    Ethyl glycol doesnt last as long and can cause minor heating issues and erosion issues
    HOAT can be the best and worst of both worlds but if your in a pinch and you dont know whats in the system already some of them are cross compatible with OAT and Ethyl glycol based coolants (one way only if you put it in an OAT system you cant then add Ethyl glycol or vice versa.)

    Best of luck out there, feel free to drop a DM if you need it, Work phone number available on request.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Just be weary of "some of the red types" of coolant out there. I don't know which one it is, but there is this unknown diabolical type that caused me much headaching last week or two.

    So I just finished prepping the D2a(recent acquisition), and a few minor issues to sort for RWC.
    One of the issues was coolant leaks.
    First one I got too was the coolant pump outlet port to hose leak. This was the obvious one. my initial fix was to remove stupid spring clamp and use worm drive clamp. done but not fixed, still leaking. remove hose again, fit a t-clamp instead .. no fix!! short story ... turns out a waxy/slippery build of of this pink-ish reddish on the both the pump and lower pipe hose ports. Lower hose easy to get too, pump outlet a bit less easy to reach, but this slippery build up was the cause(this time), not the spring clip(oh! .. and apologies to spring clip devotees).

    filled up again ... new leak! .. argghhh! Coming from way on up high .. top of pump cover.

    silicon hoses, new waterpump, and some other bits ordered, and need a couple days recovery time ... so few days later removed al manner of bits, including AC compressor, and I think I noticed immediately what this (non)waterpump leak was.
    Top(head) outlet port must have small leak, and filled the voids(webbing) under the AC compressor which then sometimes fill and then overspill ... "LOOKING" like a waterpump cover leak.
    Again, this slippery waxy build up of whatever/whoever used this unknown brand of red coolant.

    I use Penrite red in TDi and TD5 for 7/8 years and never seen this waxy build up on any hose port.
    I also had to use Nulon red stuff(all I had) in the 307 Peugeot, and so far havent' noticed any leaks or build up like this.

    But whatever this red coolant is, caused me grief. Unfortunately I had to re use it for now, as the priority was to get the car in RWC, which it got now.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Just be weary of "some of the red types" of coolant out there. I don't know which one it is, but there is this unknown diabolical type that caused me much headaching last week or two.

    So I just finished prepping the D2a(recent acquisition), and a few minor issues to sort for RWC.
    One of the issues was coolant leaks.
    First one I got too was the coolant pump outlet port to hose leak. This was the obvious one. my initial fix was to remove stupid spring clamp and use worm drive clamp. done but not fixed, still leaking. remove hose again, fit a t-clamp instead .. no fix!! short story ... turns out a waxy/slippery build of of this pink-ish reddish on the both the pump and lower pipe hose ports. Lower hose easy to get too, pump outlet a bit less easy to reach, but this slippery build up was the cause(this time), not the spring clip(oh! .. and apologies to spring clip devotees).

    filled up again ... new leak! .. argghhh! Coming from way on up high .. top of pump cover.

    silicon hoses, new waterpump, and some other bits ordered, and need a couple days recovery time ... so few days later removed al manner of bits, including AC compressor, and I think I noticed immediately what this (non)waterpump leak was.
    Top(head) outlet port must have small leak, and filled the voids(webbing) under the AC compressor which then sometimes fill and then overspill ... "LOOKING" like a waterpump cover leak.
    Again, this slippery waxy build up of whatever/whoever used this unknown brand of red coolant.

    I use Penrite red in TDi and TD5 for 7/8 years and never seen this waxy build up on any hose port.
    I also had to use Nulon red stuff(all I had) in the 307 Peugeot, and so far havent' noticed any leaks or build up like this.

    But whatever this red coolant is, caused me grief. Unfortunately I had to re use it for now, as the priority was to get the car in RWC, which it got now.
    sounds like you mixed the type a and tybe B or OAT and straight up ethyl glycol

    the original OAT was also known to do this if you ran it in too high a concentration or cooked it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Nah. this is how the car came. have no idea on its history, etc.

    But you reckon this can happen when mixing coolant types ... good to know, thanks.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Best of luck out there, feel free to drop a DM if you need it, Work phone number available on request.
    Hey Blknight cheers for the offer but think shes all sorted. Flushing took a couple tries to no longer have a green tinge in what would then be dropped from the lower coolant rail after the hose had been flowing clear so feeling good about that.

    do have a little worry the coolant ratio will be out because of the residual water that stays in the system post flush and post drain but have bled the system and gone for some drives and monitored temps with nanocom and all seems good. low coolant alarm plugged back to under dash fuse board and working as it should , feel when ive had air in the system before its blipped when what i assume is a air bubble runs past the sensor. keen to do more drives while monitioring and keep an eye on coolant levels in the expansion tank and potentially under the wagon haha, but so far none underneath, and only had to top up a lil coolant post bleed/run to temp and drive/cool down which ive always had to do.

    ended up going with the nulon red oat that was one of your links so thanks for that!

    hardest part was replacing the worm clamp back to factory spring hose clamp on the fuel cooler hose to radiator. sheesh, what a mare, finally sussed it with some needle nose pliers and slipped a socket over to keep the clamp open and could position it sweet.

    thanks for all your advice and input mate! legend, much appreciated. lotta legends on these forums!

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