Starter motor playing up, again.

**Bohica** · 12th January 2026, 02:03 PM

My starter motor, which did not start, was subjected to percussive maintenance. (hitting it with a hammer) That worked until today, Well the first time I hit it with the hammer it started. Then when I wanted to go on a test drive, no amount of hitting it with a hammer did any good. I think I have 4 options.
1/ Go through all the other tests, earth, etc.
2/ Clean up the contacts etc.
3/ Fit a new repair kit
4/ Replace the starter motor.

Time is an issue as I am going to Beechworth next week with the LROCV.
Comments?

When the key is turned, there is no click from the starter motor.

Where can I get a repair kit from in a hurry? Or starter motor?

**V8Ian** · 12th January 2026, 10:38 PM

Firstly you need to determine the failure, wiring, solenoid or starter.
Try bridging the solenoid, after checking the wiring.

**Tins** · 13th January 2026, 09:41 AM

Easiest place to check is the relay. Seem to remember having this conversation before. Relay #2. You can bridge the bigger contacts in the socket. Just make sure you have the car in Park, or neutral in your case.

**Bohica** · 13th January 2026, 11:18 AM

Results of diagnostics

Battery is at 11.8V, It is on the charger
Starter motor voltage is also 11.8V
Resistance between negative terminal and engine block is 0.5 Ohms, it is meant to be less than 0.2 Ohms.
Voltage at exciter when key turned to start 0.0V At least the starter motor can stay in. I am inclined to think that the lead near the starter motor is damaged some hoe, hence hammering resolved the issue in the short term. However it is easy to check the relay. I need to work out what wire comes out of the relay that goes to the starter.
If I run a jumper from the battery to the starter motor, bypassing the relay and the existing exciter wire, it should start.

**BradC** · 13th January 2026, 12:56 PM

Originally Posted by Bohica

Resistance between negative terminal and engine block is 0.5 Ohms, it is meant to be less than 0.2 Ohms.

What are you measuring that with and where did that spec come from?

Most multimeters are crap below a couple of ohms, even if you null out the lead resistance. For sub 1 ohm measurements you really need a 4 wire meter.

An average starter motor will draw a couple of hundred Amps when stalled. A couple of hundred Amps (let's be overly kind and say 200) over 0.2 Ohms is 40V. So if you have 200 milliohms between your battery and your block it's going to be a non-starter.

Originally Posted by Bohica

If I run a jumper from the battery to the starter motor, bypassing the relay and the existing exciter wire, it should start.

Absolutely. Just short the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery wire with a screwdriver.

**Bohica** · 13th January 2026, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by BradC

What are you measuring that with and where did that spec come from?

Most multimeters are crap below a couple of ohms, even if you null out the lead resistance. For sub 1 ohm measurements you really need a 4 wire meter.

An average starter motor will draw a couple of hundred Amps when stalled. A couple of hundred Amps (let's be overly kind and say 200) over 0.2 Ohms is 40V. So if you have 200 milliohms between your battery and your block it's going to be a non-starter.

Absolutely. Just short the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery wire with a screwdriver.

Measured with an inexpensive multi meter and from the internet.

**350RRC** · 14th January 2026, 10:37 AM

Not saying this is the cause of your problem but why is the actual ignition switch never looked at as a cause of some of these electrical problems with D2's?

They just have copper dimples inside that wear / flatten out a tiny bit when the key is turned. They wear out in RRC's and other vehicles.

I had this starting problem tears ago and it took ages to figure out. Had a starting prob with my Courier ute, got the RACV, big heart starter applied for no effect, he diagnosed dead starter. I pulled the actual switch out and unclipped the plastic switch cover and pressed out the dimples and all has been good............and that was 5 years ago.

It's not as easy with an LR switch because the cover is alloy.

However in your case I'd be checking there is power from the actual switch to the relay and power from the relay to the solenoid when the switch is turned to the start position.

cheers, DL

**Bohica** · 14th January 2026, 11:01 AM

The ignition switch, or barrel was replaced about 7 years ago.
The lack of any volts on the exciter wire is th smoking gun.

**Bohica** · 14th January 2026, 05:31 PM

I shorted the exciter plug to the 12V from the battery at the starter motor. After ensuring that the car was in neutral, it was, but I could hear Tins saying "put it in neutral" It never hurst to check.
The starter motor started. Woo Hooo. I swapped over relays 1 and 2 no start. The relay is good and the problem is the wire. From TAVE the wire looks red with a brown stripe. It is brown with a red stripe. I just looked at what was on the screen. The wire come from connector C0571-2 I am guessing that the -2 means to second slot. Anyways there was only one wire coming out of C0571 and it was the middle slot out of three, or number 2. I have bought cable and will make up a lead to bypass the dud wire. ut that is a tomorrow job.

**AK83** · 15th January 2026, 07:34 AM

Originally Posted by Bohica

...... From TAVE the wire looks red with a brown stripe. It is brown with a red stripe. I just looked at what was on the screen. The wire come from connector C0571-2 I am guessing that the -2 means to second slot. Anyways there was only one wire coming out of C0571 and it was the middle slot out of three, or number 2. I have bought cable and will make up a lead to bypass the dud wire. ut that is a tomorrow job.

Definitely shows Brown/Red in RAVE(that I have). If you look at the small markings they have for the wires, it shows NR, 2.0. N=Brown, R=Red(stripe), 2.0 = 2.0mm wire diameter(1.5 would equate to 1.5mm diameter wire, and so forth).

Have you checked fuse/fusible link No12? This is what gives the main power from Pos to the Brn/Red to the starter too.

There are a few fuses in the starting system. The energiser coil power for the relay comes from Fuse 23 in the pass fusebox. So even tho the relay may be good, if there is a break in the power to the coil, from ign switch to fuse23(pass) to power for the starter relay coil .. then relay will not activate.

Do you have test light? .. or just a multimeter?

Unless you have a helper, it's hard to be in the engine bay and hit the starter at the same time. But what you would want to do(even with multimeter) .. is ground the meter or test light, set the power lead into terminal 85 of the starter relay seat in the engine fuse box, and see if you get power/bolts showing when you hit the starter(pos III). If no light/volts, then fuse 23(pass) or wire problem between starter and starter coil.

And this assumes you have already checked power to terminal 30 of that relay seat too(this comes from that 30A fusible link(LINK12) fuse.

Not sure you're knowledge on the electrical diagrams, a fuse with a cross type symbol between the two points = blade fuse. A fuse with a S-type symbol between the two points = fusible link type fuse(small square box type fuse).
There are a few fuse-links in the eng fuse box rated at 30a that you could use to test. The link(12) for the starter relay is the second on the left as you stand at the drivers quarter panel.

For example, FL13(the one most left, and left of the starter fuse/link) is for main lights, you could tempily pull that one and use for the starter if FL12 is blown. But remember, easy test for FL12 is if you have constant power at term 30 on the starter relay seat. Term 87 is from the relay to the starter(ie. Br/Red) wire while you crank the starter.

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