Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

I think you will find it can fit 1 way and 1 way only. There will be a staggered spline to that effect. I have never had the D2 shaft apart but a lot of shafts are like that to get the phasing correct after bush mechs, ALA DM has been at it
Cheers Scott

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Mine was spotless in terms of the actual unis, the bearing caps were FUBARing FUBARed
So now that I have my new donor shaft, which is from a pre-update, my plan is as such.
Take the main body of the shaft from my original, which was from an update and so has the good rubber boot on the end, and use the yokes from the pre-update (as my old yokes are un-usable) and stick new unis in them. I'll make sure it's run correctly in phase and get it balanced if need be.
Anyone got any reasons why it wouldn't work?
Oh, and how do you get the shaft that the diff yoke is on back into the main body? It fell out and now I can't seem to get it back in

Be very careful with the Cardan Joint Muppet.. the Unis are an absolute cow to get out and you have to be super careful of the centre bearing in there as well... it is an expensive little item.. ranging upwards of $187 plus Grab Snatch and Take...

Originally Posted by Andych

Be very careful with the Cardan Joint Muppet.. the Unis are an absolute cow to get out and you have to be super careful of the centre bearing in there as well... it is an expensive little item.. ranging upwards of $187 plus Grab Snatch and Take...

Upwards of $187?

If you are talking about the SCV-82B centre bearing I paid $47+GST from Hardy Spicer in Perth. List price I think is $84+GST.

Originally Posted by kelvo

Upwards of $187?

If you are talking about the SCV-82B centre bearing I paid $47+GST from Hardy Spicer in Perth. List price I think is $84+GST.

Hmmm I will have to check on HS in Sydney.. pricing I had was from 2 driveline companies and CBC Bearings... CBC were $206 plus GST which is robbery for what it is.

I didnt get a chance to purchase a new shaft so this might mean I dont.. for now anyway

Has anyone here taken a circlip out of the rear unis, tapped them open a bit and regreased them with a syringe?
Mine look fine at 145KK but going on a long trip soon and thinking a bit more grease couldn't hurt.

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Has anyone here taken a circlip out of the rear unis, tapped them open a bit and regreased them with a syringe?
Mine look fine at 145KK but going on a long trip soon and thinking a bit more grease couldn't hurt.

Regards Philip A

I've always been concerned when greasing UJ's that grease was reaching all branches. So, although fiddley and time consuming I guess your proposal would be reassuring that the lube reached where it is needed.

I've successfully cleaned and regreased idler pully bearings and was surprised at how little grease even a new 'sealed' idler bearing had in it.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

I've always been concerned when greasing UJ's that grease was reaching all branches.

I often wonder that myself, but apart from the DC joint in a D2, Uni joints aren't expensive and not hard to fit, so I don't lose sleep over it.

I am doing one tomorrow on the D1.

OK.. well Hardy Spicer in Sydney have the "ball kit" which is what SCV-82B is described as and it has a list price of $90 + GST.

I should have mine later on today... I removed the old bearing yesterday afternoon... no special tools other than a Cold Chisel and a decent hammer.
The outer ring of these is like a Sintered Bronze.. definitely not like a bearing outer ring, so it splits reasonably easy with a chisel and then pops out.
The final uni joint then came out and was like new...
So on mine... 2 out of 3 Uni's were like new... full of grease and no brinelling at all. The UNi closest to the shaft on the cardan joint was Cactus... (see previous pics) and there was considerable wear in the centre ball and 1 coil of the spring was broken as well... I am assuming this was caused by the Uni failure. On the failed Uni there was plenty of grease in one plane but it was dry in the other plane.. these Uni' (Cardan Joint) were greaseable but the grease nipples were in the trunnion cap.. not sure if that is an issue or not... anyway... all up mine will have cost me around $120 to repair including 8 new Nylok nuts...