Thread: Replacing D2 TD5 engine mounts - how to.

Originally Posted by gusthedog

I did mine recently too - I found it easier to jack up the engine via the edge of the sump to 'twist' the engine and do one side at a time. Gave plenty of room. Left side was still a bit of a bitch though

Next for me is the auto mounts. Should be fun but at least they seem easier to get to.

I have changed out a few sets, and found that jacking by putting a block along the side of the sump and lifting that side, did make it easier to access each mount in turn.
And as everybody will remind you, definitely use genuine mounts, they are an item that should not be substituted with some cheapie option.

youd be lucky to get genuine anymore

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

youd be lucky to get genuine anymore

You can get them but they are not cheap. Eg: GENUINE Engine Mount for Land Rover TD5 Defender Discovery 2 PAIR KKB500750

Originally Posted by gusthedog

You can get them but they are not cheap. Eg: GENUINE Engine Mount for Land Rover TD5 Defender Discovery 2 PAIR KKB500750

That's where I got mine from, and by sheer good fortune ebay had a 15% discount so I got those genuine fronts and aftermarket rears as well for about same as fronts only.

BUT while the fronts (genuine) made an outstanding difference from whole thing shaking at idle to a very low frequency (physical and audible) vibration at idle, changing the rear (with aftermarket) ones made no further improvement. the drivers rear was sheared and there was a block of rubber supporting the transfer case on the crossmember in true bushy fashion.

Has anyone done a swap out between aftermarket and genuine rear mounts coz you were unhappy and did it improve anything?

So today I took the plunge and fitted the new LR mountings. The old ones were really in a bad state, I don't think they have ever been replaced before, so they're 20 years old now!

The drivers side on the TD5 engine was relatively painless - took 2 hrs. I jacked up the engine with a jack and piece of steel tubing, using the sump surround where the bolts fit on. No problem, there is some meat there that one can use.

The passengers side was a nightmare. With the auto box there are cooling pipes in the way and there's not much meat on that side of the sump, 1cm max where the wood/steel can fit/lift against. I eventually made a steel bracket to lift the engine and after 4 hours of jacking, using different jacks, wood, steel etc I could get the old (collapsed) mounting out but not get the new one in. The engine was just not high enough. What a pig of a job!

Eventually just borrowed an engine hoist and lifted the engine on the front lift point, took all of 10 minutes! The engine was high up against the bulkhead.

In future I think the entire job would probably take 2-3 hrs with an engine hoist. Hopefully I'll never have to do the job again..

Originally Posted by Newlandy

So

In future I think the entire job would probably take 2-3 hrs with an engine hoist. Hopefully I'll never have to do the job again..

It took me and mate maybe 3.5 4 hours to do mine. A few tea breaks, not in a rush as we'd never done this before, and may never do this again.

Originally Posted by joel0407

All the information was there. It just needed some photos.

Thanks to the idiocy of foto bouquet they no longer exist....

I'm about to tackle mine. I've had them sitting for a while, bought them from the legendary Mario.

I'll see if I can remember to take pics.....

I want to say it took me 3 hours... and it did, of actual work. Just that my old body doesn't leap up from under like it used to, and my fractured spine ain't fully healed yet, so call it 5...

Pretty straightforward imo, I have done much harder jobs. It really helps to have a crane, and a good assortment of cordless tools. I don't know if I'd have got the driver's side top nut undone without the big rattler.

Car is much smoother, even though I don't think my old ones were as bad as some.

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Mario had the right stuff.....

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