Thread: Clicking front end - changed CVs and half shaft and double cardon and still there...!

Altho you may have adjusted & think your bearings were done properly ... They always seem to settle in after driving them ... So .... Check your wheel bearings for free play movement ... give your each wheel a push / pull side wise

Mike

No adjustable wheel brgs on D2 Mike, they are a sealed item

The other possibility is that the hub splines are worn too, you mentioned the axles are twisted on the splined section? The hub internal splines will suffer too if this is the case. The axle nut may be tight, but the torque applied to the axle to drive through the hub is huge, expecially towing in low range. I have had some ongiong troubles over the years with Subarus (Which have a similar design for fronts minus the sealed bearing/ hub) when their hub splines wear you can tighten them all you like, but they just keep coming loose They make a clicking sound similar to a CV but deeper, and usually in a straight line accelerating, not turning.

JC

I also wonder if its the cross pins in the centre of the diff, especially if you've twisted axles. Everything in D2 axles seem to be of comparable strength and these are also a known failure point.

Thanks very much fellas - I have replaced the front hubs with CVs and half shaft...the hubs too showed twist problems.

Simon - cheers mate - it sounds like its coming from further in than the CVs...if its the pins how long do you reckon before she goes bang...its been clicking for a while and is not getting worse and Im gentle on it.

Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

Thanks very much fellas - I have replaced the front hubs with CVs and half shaft...the hubs too showed twist problems.

Simon - cheers mate - it sounds like its coming from further in than the CVs...if its the pins how long do you reckon before she goes bang...its been clicking for a while and is not getting worse and Im gentle on it.

Cheers

If thats what it is, you're probably on borrowed time and more than likely the next time you take it offroad it'll break. Just also check the amount of play that is in the front diff with a wheel on the jack as this will also give an indication - they get lashy when things start to break. Lock the CDL with the handbrake on and compare this to the rear for the amount of rotation. The other area which is prone in the D2 is the planetary gears that sit on those shafts, and you can tell if these are broken by checking for metal debris on the magnet on the diff drain plug.

If you can determine that it is the diff, when they break they do at times punch holes through the housing as the parts get spun around with the crownwheel. Thats usually not a big fix as you can zap it with a mig welder, but its another thing.

Thanks Simon. I guess its a good excuse if its the diff (and I cant see it being anything else because the whole front end is new apart from the diff and mine does not have CDL so the front diff has had a hard life) to go and get a locker and fit a good second hand transfer case and CDL....

Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

Thanks Simon. I guess its a good excuse if its the diff (and I cant see it being anything else because the whole front end is new apart from the diff and mine does not have CDL so the front diff has had a hard life) to go and get a locker and fit a good second hand transfer case and CDL....

Cheers

Or fix/replace any bits that might be damaged. You can probably get a standard replacement bolt in diff assy (not axle assy) for about $220. If its the pin and planetary gears and you want to rebuild it, its probably cheaper again. All excluding labour/shipping.

I was thinking like an ARB for strength, but if I get CDL it and traction control with make a good combo for me....can anyone suggest a diff internal that would make a good replacement.

Cheers