Thread: Broken Passenger side CV

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Yes - CVs break more often in reverse than when going forwards.

Isuzurover

Won't be doing that again. Only consulation is that it was a D1 that was being snatched I was snatching in reverse & he was being recovered in reverse hope he hasn't done any damage as well.or the Nissan & Toyo lads that we where out with will certainly give us both some grief.
The Ashcroft CVs certainly look stronger but will always remember to snatch in a forward directin from now on.

Cheers Wayne

I've seen maxidrive axles snap going forwards with a snatch also. Just take care, thats all. BTW, the Ashcroft CV's are made by the same company that makes Longfield CV's. You might wear them out, but you wont break them. Something else in the driveline will break first.


Also, I ordered CV's also last night.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I've seen maxidrive axles snap going forwards with a snatch also. Just take care, thats all. BTW, the Ashcroft CV's are made by the same company that makes Longfield CV's. You might wear them out, but you wont break them. Something else in the driveline will break first.


Also, I ordered CV's also last night.

Slunnie

Wish I had the coin to fit a locker as well while everthing is apart.was looking at the ARB locker kit L8 have 4:11s.Next thing will be the drive shaft I guess. You have told me about Tom Woods before but is there an equivalent in OZ. And are you going to fit yours or have it done ?
Wayne

Originally Posted by LR25TD

Slunnie

Wish I had the coin to fit a locker as well while everthing is apart.was looking at the ARB locker kit L8 have 4:11s.Next thing will be the drive shaft I guess. You have told me about Tom Woods before but is there an equivalent in OZ. And are you going to fit yours or have it done ?
Wayne

Actually I've just ordered a set of front and rear Tom Woods shafts too. Even with lockers, the diff or a standard tailshaft will still be the next to break with the Ashcroft CV's.

The closest to Tom Woods is the local Spicer 1310 shaft. These have a 1310 DC and as far as I'm aware these have a non greasable centre bearing which is what fails when it dries out. Tom was using these up until recently. The Australian Spicer shaft also retains the standard 1300 uni at the diff. These are about $1300 per shaft.

The Tom Woods has a 1310 DC joint which now has a greasable centre bearing. This part is now made specifically for him from cast steel instead of cast iron and it is stronger than the greasable and non greasable alternatives. The Tom Woods shafts are 1310 throughout. You will land these in Australia in about 5 days for less money and for 2 shafts!!! Tom kindly gives me the competitors discount and I'll land 2x 1310 DC shafts, 2x spare DC yolks, 2x spare uni joints for about $1050. I fit these myself, they are easy. 2x 9/16" spanners is all that is needed.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Actually I've just ordered a set of front and rear Tom Woods shafts too. Even with lockers, the diff or a standard tailshaft will still be the next to break with the Ashcroft CV's.

The closest to Tom Woods is the local Spicer 1310 shaft. These have a 1310 DC and as far as I'm aware these have a non greasable centre bearing which is what fails when it dries out. Tom was using these up until recently. The Australian Spicer shaft also retains the standard 1300 uni at the diff. These are about $1300 per shaft.

The Tom Woods has a 1310 DC joint which now has a greasable centre bearing. This part is now made specifically for him from cast steel instead of cast iron and it is stronger than the greasable and non greasable alternatives. The Tom Woods shafts are 1310 throughout. You will land these in Australia in about 5 days for less money and for 2 shafts!!! Tom kindly gives me the competitors discount and I'll land 2x 1310 DC shafts, 2x spare DC yolks, 2x spare uni joints for about $1050. I fit these myself, they are easy. 2x 9/16" spanners is all that is needed.

Slunnie

Thanks for that info looks like I need to save up some money. Then might get you to order me some of those if that is Ok with you.
You certainly know your Rovers and must have world wide contacts.

Cheers again Wayne

Originally Posted by LR25TD

Slunnie

Thanks for that info looks like I need to save up some money. Then might get you to order me some of those if that is Ok with you.
You certainly know your Rovers and must have world wide contacts.

Cheers again Wayne

I don't know that he will extend the discount, but we can see at the time.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I've seen maxidrive axles snap going forwards with a snatch also. Just take care, thats all.

Snatching of course puts shock loading on axles. However, I have personally seen far more CVs fail when a vehicle reversing under load (snatching or otherwise) than when going forwards.

The joke about nissans in comps was that they could use as much loud pedal as possible when going forwards, but the minute they have to reverse, BANG, bye bye CV.

Hey guys just rememmber with making cv axel heavyduty and 4:11 diffs with extra strenght bigger tyres ect its always a good idea to leave a weak point so this will break before all you expensive aftermarket things .


I run ashcroft front cv and axels maxidrive rear great basin rovers 4:14 diffs dual locked and 49% rock crawler gears so there is alot of heavey duty stuff there ,so i have left my drive shafts alone as a weak break point these are easy to replace and alot cheaper than breaking diffs axels ect
i carry spares front and back and they can be bought cheap from most wreckers and you just rebuild them

my 2 cents