cant you just do it yourself if its not a lot of concrete?
My Christmas task is to fix up the garage so have started painting and was going to etch and paint the concrete floor but there appears to be multiple layers of 'something' the previous owner had on the floor to catch the oil. Must have also had landies
Anyway, any job I do to the floor will be half baked and I don't want that. Was thinking that a concreter could skim a cm off the top or 5mm or whatever then lay some smooth concrete on top ready for paint.
If you are or know of a concreter in Sydney that can do this kinda soon, please get in touch via PM.
I would rather a recommendation then to pick a random co from the paper or something....
In the mean time am going to look at what Kennards hire
Cheers
Caine
cant you just do it yourself if its not a lot of concrete?
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
I could but I just know it is going to be one of those jobs that I start and wish I hadn't.
Don't think it is a big area - about 13m x 4.5m.
And I am more than happy to pay for a top job.....
How thick is the existing slab, getting it ground and sealed would be a good option over skimming a layer that has the potential to crack up and get messy down the track.
Can hire conc. grinding gear from all the usual suspects, messy but not rocket science.
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Cheers Steve.
It is really all over the shop.....there is a thin layer of smooth cement but only in a very small area. Then there is either rubber or poly-something in another area but it very easy to break up. Was doing it today with a scrapper. The whole area is somewhat uneven and I would have to grind about 10mm I am thinking. Would need diamond cutters and an industrial strength extraction unit. All sounds like lots of trips to and from the hirer and I'd much rather be fishing
I hopped on the Kennards site and they look to have a free concrete advice service which I might have to use.
I would much rather pay someone to do the job......would have to be worth $1500 + which I have no problem with parting with ensure its done right.
All I know is you wouldnt get a trady to sneeze for one and a half gorillas up this way
Do it yourself or get reamed is my philosophy!
I too would be rather fishing though - so jobs like yours get added to the list and done when the wind blows in winter!
BTW grinding 10mm plus is within the realms of hired grinders (they are diamond stone)
messy dusty annoying job but doable.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Bunnings sell a self leveling mix to go over uneven surfaces.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
As advised above your going to have all sorts of problems with a top coat of concrete. Best off cleaning and using an epoxy industrial coating.
paul
Cheers Paul. Where does one acquire the industrial grade epoxy coating?
Catch-22, Im a concreter. You have explained your shed slab as multiple layers.
Only spend money on your existing slab if it is structually sound, no good having new surfaces delaminate and bust off.
Might be a better idea to grab a pair of ear muffs a bin and jack hammer
Bust the old conc out and pour a nice new slab thatis clean and will last for years
ps put a pit in while you can![]()
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