Wanted: Concreter in Sydney

**catch-22** · 26th December 2010, 06:35 AM

g'day Baffle, had another look yesterday and I think the thin (2-4mm) layer is a rubber or epoxy and was put down in two areas to catch oil drips. All other areas are rough and the whole lot is all different colours due to oil drips etc. There is also an area that has exposed rocks like that you would see in pebblecrete.

You think the jack hammer is better than a Grinder?

I just want it to be clean. Would love it to be smooth also. I was even considering just getting that pavement paint and applying a few coats but am concerned its adhesion to the existing surface, given the oil stains and thin coating that comes off quite easy, would not be great.

Am going to head out to Bunnings today to look for that self levelling cement but know that I cannot just apply over the existing surface.

**OLR-067** · 26th December 2010, 09:31 AM

Catch...can you post some pics ...might help to get a better idea of what your dealing with.Have a bit of a google and research for epoxy coatings and sealers. Here' one supplier in Brisbane, should be plenty of others around
Epoxy Supplies Commercial Industrial, Concrete Coatings, Seamless Flooring, Polished Concrete Supplier.

Paul

**catch-22** · 26th December 2010, 09:38 AM

Good idea Paul. Will move the boat and the rangie as soon as I get home and take some pictures.....

**p38arover** · 26th December 2010, 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Baffle

ps put a pit in while you can

I was going to do the same - until I read a bit more about them. I didn't realise just how many people have died in pits.

The should be twice as long as the vehicle to allow an escape path in at least one direction if there is, say, a fire.

Ventilation is also a problem. Petrol fumes and LPG are both heavier than air so will fill the pit causing either an explosive mix or asphyxiating the occupant. Positive ventilation may be required depending on the depth of the pit.

**bee utey** · 26th December 2010, 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by p38arover

I was going to do the same - until I read a bit more about them. I didn't realise just how many people have died in pits.

The should be twice as long as the vehicle to allow an escape path in at least one direction if there is, say, a fire.

Ventilation is also a problem. Petrol fumes and LPG are both heavier than air so will fill the pit causing either an explosive mix or asphyxiating the occupant. Positive ventilation may be required depending on the depth of the pit.

Fully agree. Having used pits I prefer a decent trolley jack, 4 axle stands and a creeper board any time. Or a hoist.

**catch-22** · 27th December 2010, 05:06 AM

Better than a picture

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HO2lD1TTYA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HO2lD1TTYA[/ame]

**OLR-067** · 27th December 2010, 07:57 AM

Catch22, I am get this message and will not play.... "This is a private video. If you have been sent this video please make sure you accept the sender's friend request."

Paul

**catch-22** · 27th December 2010, 08:45 AM

My fault. Fixed now

**slug_burner** · 27th December 2010, 10:02 AM

Ardit is one self leveling compound I know of. Used in the floor trade.

Wherever the the underlying concrete is smooth and covered by that rubber or paint coating use a shovel with a flat mouth. Use it like a chisel to slide over the concrete and under the paint to work the paint off. Just get some speed up as your sliding it towards the paint and it should work really well as it looks like it is crumbling off with little effort.

A gas blowtorch/heat source can work like a heat gun, however you will have to ensure that you have plenty of ventilation.

Where it is rough and not clean of paint/ oil you might have to find soome chemical to help with pulling the oil out of the concrete and leaving a clean surface for you to apply the ardit. You might have to give it a touch with a jack hammer to clean the surface if the concrete is crumbling.

Good luck

**roverrescue** · 27th December 2010, 04:19 PM

Im no pro but that looks like a good ad for why NOT to use levelling compounds or skim layers... They flake off!

Id be grabbing a diamond stone grinder from kennards, a respirator and some good fans to blow the dust and seeing what comes of it. From the times Ive played the use of water although less dust, canes the abrasive stones ($$) - try it both ways. I gaurentee youll need a cleansing ale once your done!

It also wouldnt be too big a job to get a tradey conc grinder in.

With respect to sealing it, at the workshop I have had a good run using Resene Pavement single pack, simple acid wash then roller it on. Sure it gets fibre glass and paint on it, stains, welding burns, chips here and there - oil still washes right off though!... BUT pretty much all sealers will get that. The nice thing about Resene is once you are sick of the mess, wash with acid, rinse and re-paint. As opposed to the epoxies that are much harder to re-do.

Steve

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