Thread: MOST DANGEROUS 4X4 EVER MADE!

The plot get worse.

The auto electrician has checked the RR out and there is a 155 amp current drain.

He has ruled out the starter motor as the problem and needs to get at the alternator.

To get at the alternator, the front wheel has to be removed.

To remove the front wheel, they need the wheel lock nut.

Where is the wheel lock nut? It’s kept in with the spare wheel, which under normal circumstances, is a good idea.

The problem in this case is that the spare wheel is under the floor in the cargo area and the only access is through the tailgate, which can only be unlocked when the battery is connected.

Now, to get power to the tailgate without risking any electrical damage, the positive terminal on the cranking battery has to be removed, the the cover is taken off the mega fuse holder and the alternator cable is then unbolted.

Then the battery can be reconnected and power supplied to unlock the tail gate.

GIVE ME AN FJ HOLDEN PLEASE.

just a slight correction to the previous post.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

The plot get worse.

.......
GIVE ME AN FJ HOLDEN PLEASE.

GIVE ME A 300Tdi Defender PLEASE

Thanks for keeping us updated. I'm curious to find out the final diagnosis.

Hi Traxide,

Sorry, can't get back to the very beginning at the moment. Is this a FFRR or a RRS? If it's a FFRR (L322) then what is the problem with getting to the tailgate from the rear seats? Are the rear doors locked?

Both rear seats fold forward far enough to get past. The cargo blind can be folded from the rear seat position and both the tailgate upper and lower have manual releases. I can do this even if I have to get the cargo barrier out first. PM me if you need details on how to do this.

Pardon my ignorance of your situation. I'm not sure I understand why it's not possible to get to the spare wheel well.

Rather worried (as are you I'm quite sure) about that 150+ Amp current. Interested to know how it turns out.

Just my 2c worth.

Cheers,
Iain

Originally Posted by drivesafe

This would make it supposedly a fail safe system, but does not explain why mine engaged with the ignition in the on position and until I get the electrics sorted I can’t tell why it is not working now.

Perhaps as the voltage dropped, the key recognition component lost contact with the key and before the lock component lost sufficient power so the lock was activated. This could be reproduced using a dud battery connected to a charger to unlock then remove the charger to allow the voltage to drop away.

Originally Posted by reubsrover

hmm the ecu on my SIII never blew up when I did it
Learn something ever day, I won't be doing dodgy jump starts again.

There is an E-mark standard that requires vehicle electronics to withstand the massive surge if the battery is disconnected whilst the engine is running. However as the standard is self-certified, apparently the normal procedure is that a manufacturer will at best just replace the affected components rather than try to make them withstand the surge. As LR owner manuals these days state that the engine must be switched-off for a number of minutes before disconnecting the battery, it is possible that LR and others would deny any warranty claim if the vehicle was still otherwise covered.

Hi Iain and thanks.

I did some checking and there is no workaround for the tailgate on the latest RR.

You can easily fold down the second row of seats to get access to the rear cargo area but, you need to be a contortionist to get at the spare wheel compartment because you have to get the cover up, which opens towards the rear and this is where the handle for the cover is.

So you have to stand on the cover to get at the handle and then you have to try to open the cover while you’re on it.


Just worked out easier to disconnect the alternator cable at the cranking battery and then power everything up again.

Wow...a Land Rover having major electrical faults...big surprise.

Glad no one got hurt mate.

I'll never buy a Land Rover that was made after the Series III.

Hi Drivesafe (apologies getting that wrong before),

I'm a little surprised that the MY07 doesn't have the manual releases for the upper and lower tailgates. My MY03 does and a friends MY06 (I think - it's after the first facelift anyway) does.

It's all kind of moot now anyway since you powered the tailgates open. For reference, should any reader get caught out without power, the descriptions are below.

If you look at the shroud trim at the base of the upper tailgate you'll see a little tab just to the drivers side of centre. If you pick this out of the trim and pull it'll release the latch as it's attached to a cable likewise attached to the latch.

Having opened the upper tailgate if you then reach down inside either side of the lower tailgate (just above the side latch points) there is a tab to press down to release that latch. If you have a wide reach you can do it at the same time but each side in turn works just as well.

All of this used to be in the owners manual.

I'd be a little surprised if LR had deleted these from more recent models given that they sell a full height barrier and with all the "anti-trap" legislation in place today. Without these latches it would be very easy to become trapped in the rear of the vehicle with breaking a window (not at all easy) the only option of escape.

Have a look and see if they are really there. This part of the bodywork hasn't changed from MY03 to MY11.

I'm happy to be wrong about the manual releases, and given where all of this started, anything LR do/did isn't going to surprise me anymore. Might just check the MicroCat and see if the parts have been deleted, or not.

Still very glad no-one (particularly your other half) came to any harm in this awful scenario.

Happy hunting.

Iain