Thread: the cheap ebay chainsaws yours still going?

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

[snip]
I reckon the chain "Carlton" that came with it doesn't stay sharp long and stretches quickly . Might replace it soon.

Might I suggest the chain isn't at fault here

guys with oil leaks, when finished and putting away, crack the oil tank cap to depressurise the tank. It may help somewhat with the oil leaks.....btw never store a saw with fuel/oil mix left in it...in fact its best to let the saw cool a little at idle once finished cutting, dump all fuel and then start and let idle untill it runs dry.

all chains stretch and become dull, they are a consumable item.....more os in some hands than others.

Originally Posted by rick130

Might I suggest the chain isn't at fault here

I haven't hit any dirt to blunt them if that's what you are thinking , I know that much. The oiler works. Please enlighten me

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I haven't hit any dirt to blunt them if that's what you are thinking , I know that much. The oiler works. Please enlighten me

How frequently are you sharpening the chain (per tank of fuel)?

What angle are you sharpening the chain at?

Can you post some closeup pics of the chain - especially showing the raker height and sharpening angle?

Originally Posted by lewy

mine is still fine,had to replace the cheap chinese plug with a champion [probably made in chine as well]and so is the chaps and eye protection and helmet and gloves,just getting in first.

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

Ahh the good old Chainsaw PPE card. That's an AULRO institution now

LMAO

Originally Posted by rick130

Might I suggest the chain isn't at fault here

Originally Posted by isuzurover

How frequently are you sharpening the chain (per tank of fuel)?

What angle are you sharpening the chain at?

Can you post some closeup pics of the chain - especially showing the raker height and sharpening angle?

The chain manufacturers including Carlton, Oregon and Stihl all make cheaper and more expensive products to suit operators.

Here is the PRO catalogue from Oregon OREGON 2012 Catalog: Chain saw chain, guide bars and lawn mower blades and parts

In the USA Home Owner section is what most chains you guys would use, I can help out with Loops and stuff if need be I keep a small amount of 3/8 and .325 chain in stock for my own use but not much at the moment and I only have 1 cheap saw that a customer left due to it being too exy to fix so I fixed it anyway and now is my only saw.

If anyone is actually interested I have a contact for PPE if you guys wanted to do a group buy on some sets of Chaps, goggles and muffs or even if you want forestry helmets they can help you with that too.

Again, no profit to me, I will just organise it you lot pay cost as I don't do saw stuff anymore.

Cheers Casper

Originally Posted by isuzurover

How frequently are you sharpening the chain (per tank of fuel)?

What angle are you sharpening the chain at?

Can you post some closeup pics of the chain - especially showing the raker height and sharpening angle?

I sharpened it to 30deg.
I don't get a tank full before it needs sharpening.

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I sharpened it to 30deg.
I don't get a tank full before it needs sharpening.

What numbers are on the chain ?
Semi chisel and chipper generally stays sharper longer in Oz timber (Eucs) than full chisel.

I've had to sharpen chain (or actually swap loops) after five cuts and the timber was dead clean (but dead) Red Box.
It's just the nature of our timber, you take multiple loops bush and you get really good at filing afterwards.

I used Stihl, Carlton and Windsor chain on that small job (dropping and cutting up a tree) and they all lasted the same number of cuts before needing swapping.

I get a little better life in Red Gum (again, it depends on the tree) and any of the Box's play merry hell on chain life, and if there's a termite chimney up the guts sometimes it's one cut and it's all over.

BTW, raker (depth gauge) height is critical for efficient cutting, and i strongly believe that the raker height should be dropped as the cutter is taken back to maintain cutting angle and speed.

Carlton and Husqvarna advocate this method of sharpening, Oregon and Stihl continue to recommend a fixed raker height for the life of the tooth.
IME a fixed raker height results in slower cutting the further the cutter is filed back as the cutting angle (the slope from the top of the raker to the top of the tooth) decreases as the tooth is filed back.

Top plate angle determines how cleanly the sideplate severs the wood fibre and and file height (hook) determines the amount of self feed into the timber.

[QUOTE=rick130;
BTW, raker (depth gauge) height is critical for efficient cutting, and i strongly believe that the raker height should be dropped as the cutter is taken back to maintain cutting angle and speed.

Carlton and Husqvarna advocate this method of sharpening, Oregon and Stihl continue to recommend a fixed raker height for the life of the tooth.
IME a fixed raker height results in slower cutting the further the cutter is filed back as the cutting angle (the slope from the top of the raker to the top of the tooth) decreases as the tooth is filed back.

Top plate angle determines how cleanly the sideplate severs the wood fibre and and file height (hook) determines the amount of self feed into the timber.[/QUOTE]

When I was a Sales Rep for MCulloch in the late 70's I remember our technician saying the tell tale is that the rakers get a shine on them, which is saying they are rubbing the wood before the cutter. He was a wonder to work with as he could pick up a handfull of sawdust & diagnose the filing mistake.