Thread: M R Automotive Recovery points?

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Okay so for those wanting to know, these are the M.R Auto recovery points. Rated at 2.5t + apparently.

how do they rate 2.5 tonne, by steady pull.
Snatching out a seriously bogged 4Wd with a weight of 2 tonne of dead vehicle weight already ,doesn't leave much margin for force related

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

how do they rate 2.5 tonne, by steady pull.
Snatching out a seriously bogged 4Wd with a weight of 2 tonne of dead vehicle weight already ,doesn't leave much margin for force related

not sure, thought it seemed a bit light. The bloke assured me that "they pull landcruisers out all the time"...

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

not sure, thought it seemed a bit light. The bloke assured me that "they pull landcruisers out all the time"...

That's were I wonder, towing something is a constant load, but a jerk force could be different, I'm no expert on physics, but I imagine a sudden inertia force could cause something to give.
Take an ordinary tow rope, tow a vehicle and it follows behind, suddenly take off from stationary with a bit of pedal and a lot of cases the tow rope will snap, too much inertia


(That bloke should post on overlander, since they pull land cruisers out ALL the time)

you should always be using a double leg sling on a disco chassis...

and then ensuring your getting as straight a pull as you can...

i used those style recovery points on my discos without issues...

something like

Disco, I have always wondered who "Rated" these items, have they been tested in some "Rating Laboratory", do they meet the relevant Australian Standards (if there is one).
Quote: " Rated at 2.5t + apparently." I agree with your uncertainty.
I could get my oxy out cut out a bit of plate drill some holes and put them up for sale and say they are Rated.
I know for a fact that gear used in the rigging industries (when i was in the game) had to meet design criteria and were tested to destuction in Government approved test labs, which gave some semblance of quality.
Now I look at these things and they don't inspire confidence, a hell of a lot depends on how they are mounted, what to, and what type of hardware. The holes for the shackle pins are too small and will cause jambing when pulled slightly off centre.
Now I am no engineer but I think my idea of using a large collared eye bolt with a 100mm length threaded shank and nut. Two pieces of plate steel at 13mm (min.) thick profiled to the inside end of the chassis rails with a thread (same as eye bolt) tapped through with the nut from the eye bolt welded to the back. So as the eye bolt can be screwed through plate and nut, then weld plate into end of chassis rail, you could also weld a couple of bars as stoppers in front of the plate as insurance. A hole in the bull bar to align with with the threaded hole in chassis plates. You would only need to install the eye bolts when needed or you could have them in all the time and hang some shackles, my idea, haven't done it yet but I will post pics when I can scrape up some money to do it, Regards frank.

Originally Posted by Tank

Disco, I have always wondered who "Rated" these items, have they been tested in some "Rating Laboratory", do they meet the relevant Australian Standards (if there is one).
Quote: " Rated at 2.5t + apparently." I agree with your uncertainty.
I could get my oxy out cut out a bit of plate drill some holes and put them up for sale and say they are Rated.
I know for a fact that gear used in the rigging industries (when i was in the game) had to meet design criteria and were tested to destuction in Government approved test labs, which gave some semblance of quality.
Now I look at these things and they don't inspire confidence, a hell of a lot depends on how they are mounted, what to, and what type of hardware. The holes for the shackle pins are too small and will cause jambing when pulled slightly off centre.
Now I am no engineer but I think my idea of using a large collared eye bolt with a 100mm length threaded shank and nut. Two pieces of plate steel at 13mm (min.) thick profiled to the inside end of the chassis rails with a thread (same as eye bolt) tapped through with the nut from the eye bolt welded to the back. So as the eye bolt can be screwed through plate and nut, then weld plate into end of chassis rail, you could also weld a couple of bars as stoppers in front of the plate as insurance. A hole in the bull bar to align with with the threaded hole in chassis plates. You would only need to install the eye bolts when needed or you could have them in all the time and hang some shackles, my idea, haven't done it yet but I will post pics when I can scrape up some money to do it, Regards frank.

Frank - waiting with bated breath to see the outcome of your swivels (oops, collared) recovery points - there might even be a business opportunity here!

Frank, I'm crap with words. Can you draw a diagram? It sounds interesting.

Originally Posted by tomalophicon

Frank, I'm crap with words. Can you draw a diagram? It sounds interesting.

Mate I don't have anything to draw it with This crappy windows 7 doesn't recognise my Canon scanner and I have no idea how to use Paint? Maybe I can draw it on paper and take some pics then upload them, I will give it a go this arvo, regards Frank.