Thread: One for the fridgies

Originally Posted by 4bee

What is it a Dye or a specfic Chemical that reacts more readily to a Halide or Electronid leak detector?

Its a fluorescent dye that shows up under UV light. Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Errecom-AC-Systems-UV-Leak-Detector-Dye-R1234yf-Blue-Brilliant-Hybrid-Electric-/392326524416?ef_id=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmxJn1z D-E24FWHwdjJPaT6dUAB-V_N6YDLncS3z3sU-0Zv3eHnih6kaAotXEALw_wcB:G:s

Several yeas ago the air con in my Land Rover was not putting out as it should. The car was in at the then dealers and I asked Einstein to check it while I was there. He started waving a UV lamp around, so I asked him: "when did you put the tracing dye in?" He responded with a blank look, had no idea what I was talking about. At that time I was not long into retirement and still current of what was what. I know for a fact there was no dye in the system.

Just happened to mention it recently to the English tech at the now dealer, and he claimed that it is now included at the factory.

Originally Posted by Old Farang

Its a fluorescent dye that shows up under UV light. Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Errecom-AC-Systems-UV-Leak-Detector-Dye-R1234yf-Blue-Brilliant-Hybrid-Electric-/392326524416?ef_id=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmxJn1z D-E24FWHwdjJPaT6dUAB-V_N6YDLncS3z3sU-0Zv3eHnih6kaAotXEALw_wcB:G:s

Several yeas ago the air con in my Land Rover was not putting out as it should. The car was in at the then dealers and I asked Einstein to check it while I was there. He started waving a UV lamp around, so I asked him: "when did you put the tracing dye in?" He responded with a blank look, had no idea what I was talking about. At that time I was not long into retirement and still current of what was what. I know for a fact there was no dye in the system.

Just happened to mention it recently to the English tech at the now dealer, and he claimed that it is now included at the factory.

The car AC blokes buy that crap, as Paul said the refrigerants we use don't have dye added as we don't use it

As far as leak detectors go, nothing beats a Danfoss/Bacharach PGM-IR detector.
It's an overnight bag sized bit of electronic wizardry. Just a bigger, more sensitive version of Paul's Fieldpiece detectors.

You dial in what refrigerant you are seeking and it reads in PPM.

You walk into a supermarket and it starts reading, even if the leak is in a plant room

We occasionally borrow the Retail and City techs ones, they are really good bits of gear.
I finally convinced the boss to buy one (they bought two one for CO2, one for normal refrigerants @ $4500 each!) but the COO won't let them live in the branches, they stay put at head office

I found this a couple of days ago.

It's at a new client, we've picked up a heap of work out of them as I keep finding really dodgy stuff.
The original installations were done really nicely, but the mob that's been looking after it for the last 5 or so years are a domestic AC mob and dodgy as hell.
I've had to install safety trays uber FCU's and insulate drain lines as ceilings are sopping wet from condensate in a couple of replacement installations.
Peno's aren't sealed, dodgy wiring like this....
About to start installing fifteen new high wall splits in residents rooms even though we are $10k dearer than the other mob. They've seen the difference in our approach just from two PM's and now a comp change on the kitchen coolroom already

And another

Some clown has actually soldered the wires onto the compresser terminals

That Danfoss leak detecter would want to be good at that sort of cost.The Fieldpiece infra red is less than $1K.

Noice!!

Originally Posted by scarry

And another

Some clown has actually soldered the wires onto the compresser terminals

That Danfoss leak detecter would want to be good at that sort of cost.The Fieldpiece infra red is less than $1K.

Screw terminals are great. My 2.25HP Heat Pump uses ****ing Spade Terms. Each year before Summer I need to have a shufti at the condition of them for the coming season. Usually 1 or 2 are burnt. Have tried to buy a proper Spade Plug with pigtails but seems no such animal is available. It is the starting Current that is one of the problems Single Phase you see. Heavier gauge spades would be ok but the stock ones that suppliers seem to keep seem to be made of cardboard.

The Term box is as yours above, but it is the lack of space to route the cable to the spades which leaves them under a side tension. Side entry 90* Spades seem to be the worst & without manufacturing an extended cover the straight in ones lack space. I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet & knock one up.

Actually, I have just this second had a brain storm & that is to use a piece of copper or Steel pipe to extend the cover but leave enough of the original to sit down on the Cork gasket & insulate inside it. It would only need to be 30mm longer.

Making an extended cover clamp should be a doddle. Maybe even a decent cable tie.

Might even be able to knock one up from plastic fittings.


Now, who do I know who has a MIG & knocks up special spanners?

Originally Posted by 4bee

Screw terminals are great. My 2.25HP Heat Pump uses ****ing Spade Terms. Each year before Summer I need to have a shufti at the condition of them for the coming season. Usually 1 or 2 are burnt. Have tried to buy a proper Spade Plug with pigtails but seems no such animal is available. It is the starting Current that is one of the problems Single Phase you see. Heavier gauge spades would be ok but the stock ones that suppliers seem to keep seem to be made of cardboard.

The Term box is as yours above, but it is the lack of space to route the cable to the spades which leaves them under a side tension. Side entry 90* Spades seem to be the worst & without manufacturing an extended cover the straight in ones lack space. I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet & knock one up.

Actually, I have just this second had a brain storm & that is to use a piece of copper or Steel pipe to extend the cover but leave enough of the original to sit down on the Cork gasket & insulate inside it. It would only need to be 30mm longer.

Making an extended cover clamp should be a doddle. Maybe even a decent cable tie.

Might even be able to knock one up from plastic fittings.


Now, who do I know who has a MIG & knocks up special spanners?

We have trouble with burnt wires on single and three phase gear often.

In some cases,the plastic cover can be left off,which leaves more room.If there is no room,sometimes the new spade terminals can be bent so the cover will fit on.

We use new utilux spade terminals,uninsulated,and crimp them with the genuine utilux tool.The cheap crimp tools and insulated spade terminals are hopeless,when current draw is up there,which they will be on yours.

Corrosion is also an issue that causes them to burn,so CRC or grease on them helps.And make sure they slide on nice and tight.

The main culprit on single phase gear is a shagged run capaciter,which pushes the amps up and burns the terminals,not only on the compresser,but also on the capaciter,and relay,if it has one.

Often if the compresser terminals are badly burnt,a new compresser is what is needed,together with new wiring and connectors.