Super ModeratorLove the label.Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
. I Have been using Hychill for about 7 years in my 110 AC and it has been great .Keeps the 110 cold even with the ps window down for the dog .As I am the only person that works on it the label is only to explain the cause when I get launched into orbit
Noel
Yeah, HC refrigerants tend to exchange heat better than the HFCs so you get better bang for your buck in the condenser. Where they really shone was the crap R12 to R134a conversions where they'd add a whiff of POE oil on top of the mineral and change out the refrigerant. R134a sucks in an old R12 tube and fin condenser and didn't do much for dragging the mineral oil around. Replace the 134a with Hychill and you get much better results.
Proper conversions (larger modine or parallel flow condensers), a good flush and the right lubricants help and with modern systems that are designed right from the go it's a non-issue. There were a *lot* of quick and dirty retrofits though which resulted in people blaming R134a for being a crap refrigerant, dead compressors from mineral oil logging in the evap and generally unhappy motorists.
I run R134a in my cars that were designed for it. In my 88 Volvo I run the largest aftermarket parallel flow condenser I could buy, new larger Sanden compressor and Hydrocarbons. Nothing like having capacity to spare when stuck in traffic on a 40 degree day in an old Swedish fridge that had a sub-par A/C out of the factory.
One thing that always annoyed me was the Hychill mantra of "you need less". They generally recommended a smaller charge (volumetrically) as HCs condensed so much better that you don't need as much backed up for subcooling. The issue with that was in meeting their marketing "yay it's so much better you need less", they had so little reserve that running on the ragged edge would quickly start to oil log the evap and resulted in dead compressors.
If you charged "like for like" based on a weight/density conversion they worked just as well, but tended not to lunch compressors.
LordRover
SubscriberHi all i just picked up a freebie ex medical supplies fridge that i will be using for a temp controlled beer brewing fridge, it has a digital thermostat that has a wide range of settings but currently isn't cooling, compressor is hot to touch and internal fan is running but temp isn't decreasing (could be i'm not setting correctly).
Where would be the first place to start checking for faults or if it needs a gas recharge ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Cynical Moi?
It is possible that the comp is tripping out on internal overload to me. Could be a buggered Start Capacitor (if it has one fitted) or dodgy electrics inc. cables, or the comp is buggered & why it was given the boot.
A gas charge? Possibly, but there would be a leak to find.
Is the outside heat exchanger clean of dust a crap?
Have you let it stand for a few hours switched off? It also could be a temporary floating oil blockage in the Capillary Tube which can happen after transporting after it has been shaken around. Let it stand overnight & see how it goes in 24hours.
Swaggie
What 4bee said.
If it needs gas,no such thing as a 'recharge'
Leak needs to be located and repaired first.
If compresser is actually running then yes probably out of gas.
No doubt it will be on R134a,but you prob need a good fridgie to sort it.
LordRover
SubscriberYes R134a , needs gas = recharge however you want to spin it.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Cynical Moi?
Heat Exchanger looks fine & there is not much else in those images that you can do to help it.
Don't be impatient & let it sit for the 24 hours for pressures to balance out & any blockage to drain back. & see what happens.
Do you know if it was operating ok when you first saw it?
Wizard
SupporterThe difference being that there is no service valve!Yes R134a , needs gas = recharge however you want to spin it.
At one time you could buy an add on valve that clamped on to the tubing and had a self piecing part on it.
Cynical Moi?
"Bullet Valve" I think it was OF, but being prone to leaking around the gasket seal I guess they were ditched for silver solder connections.
If it was me & my fridge needed re gassing, I would silver solder a T piece in with a tail on the leg of the T. This can be crimped off on completion & a SS plug flowed into the tail.
But today I'd probably get Rick or Paul to do it, or "one of the Boys"
ForumSage
SupporterThe trick to getting a better seal on the piercing gasket was to clean the pipe first, unless you wanted call backs/repeat business when it leaked again!"Bullet Valve" I think it was OF, but being prone to leaking around the gasket seal I guess they were ditched for silver solder connections.
If it was me & my fridge needed re gassing, I would silver solder a T piece in with a tail on the leg of the T. This can be crimped off on completion & a SS plug flowed into the tail.
But today I'd probably get Rick or Paul to do it, or "one of the Boys"
2005 D3 TDV6 Present
1999 D2 TD5 Gone
LordRover
SubscriberIt was advertised as not cooling properly, it has a +2 - +8 operating temp on the sticker. Would be good if I can get it to 0-4 range.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
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