http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-v...d-rebuild.html
Have a look here. I bought these legs on ebay. There's plenty of choice available. On my previous camper I had a pair of Volvo wind up jacks slotted into the corners.
There is the lazy way.
Buy A compressor and just let the high side tyre down to suit the slope![]()
Just don't forget to refill it before you leave![]()
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-v...d-rebuild.html
Have a look here. I bought these legs on ebay. There's plenty of choice available. On my previous camper I had a pair of Volvo wind up jacks slotted into the corners.
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
My trailer has wind down stabilisers on each rear corner for when it was used with a camper.
It also had a wind down leg that when into the jocky wheel clamp, that wound down also.
This meant that with a circle bubble on the draw bar, it could be set perfectly level in no time flat.
The problem with using legs that pin in, is what if the pin holes dont line up correctly for the surface? You need to carry shims and a shovel in order to adjust the ground underneath...
weld in 2 mount points for a highlift or simliar jack one on either side of the rear of the trailer
the front is always going to be on a vehicle or a jocky wheel theres point one
One wheel will be on the high side theres point 2
put the jack in the corner on the low side and jack it up. theres point three.
three points done, get clever about it and if you use the right kind of high lift/jack it will stay in the mount and you dont have to worry about where you have to stow that.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Hi,
Brad Fawkes has a simple method on the Campertrailers forum
cheers
That's a good point. It's made me wonder if a cut down Acro Prop could be made to work. Has a pin to roughly set it at height, then you screw down the foot to the exact height. They would have no problem supporting the weight and are easily and cheaply replaced if needed. Either that or a cut down scaffolding leg and foot. Less load bearing ability but within spec for what's needed.
This would also get me a stabilizing foot and leveling foot all in one as I had hoped for with no need to use a jack, shovel or blocks etc. You could even change a tyre with this method.
Any reason this wouldn't work?
Off to the drawing board...
Exactly how level do we need to be? Legs with adjustable pins at 20mm increments over the width of a std trailer (1600 to 1800mm) is going to pe pretty close.... If required, an M16 nut could be welded in the base of the leg, and a corresponding M16 x 50 bolt with 100mm disk welded to its head could be screwed in... I guess being used to a swag in the back of a farm ute I'll sleep anywhere as long as its quiet!![]()
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
The engineer in me thought of a three point system with hydraulic jacks on a common circuit. Lower all three, and the common circuit means that they will find their own level. for the less inclined to physical activity just have a small pump to do the hard work.
Use a 1/2 ton workshop trailer chassis. They already have 2 x rear legs.
![]()
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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