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Thread: two newb questions

  1. #1
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    two newb questions

    Hi All

    A newb with a couple of questions


    What is the maximum suspension lift allowed in WA without having to get engineers reports etc to keep it legal?
    I have heard everything from 2” to 4”.
    Anyone know for sure?


    I have 15” rims on my RR with tyres, (235/75/15) that could do with replacing. It was recommended that I go for 245/75/15 instead.
    The question is; everyone seems to run 16” is it even worth it?
    I have a standard lift at the moment, if it is worth going for 16” would I need any mods?
    My RR is just for off-roading so I don’t really care about the ride quality/noise on-road.

    Thanks for any help.
    Steve

  2. #2
    RichardK is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Steve,

    Welcome to a fellow WA Aulroian. The legal lift in WA without a special permit is 2", there are some who run around higher than that without the necessary but sooner or later.....................

    I run 16" 245 75 A/T's, 16"9 1/2"x 32 1/2 super swampers and 2"lift Kings that does me for all the heavy 4wding around the Harvey area. After that some serious money needs to be spent if the lift goes higher.

    Put another way I've drawn the line at that and we have all the fun we need
    RichardK

    Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,

  3. #3
    disco95 Guest
    I think if you look around you'll find that 15" tyres are cheaper than 16"

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    Hi and welcome Downunder Steve.
    2 inch is max legal without any certification.You can go plus 2 inch in the suspension and 2 inch in the body with an engineers certificate.If you go over the 2 and 2 you will need to comply with a "lane change test",which basically is driving between road cones at 110kmh.The test is very hard to pass and very expensive.You will need to hire Wanneroo raceway or the Speed dome in Midvale,hire a proffessional driver and pay for your engineer and transportWA inspectors to supervise the test.Your vehicle has to ballasted @ 100kg per seat,carry a full load of fuel,spare wheel and tool set.When the engineer inspected my "Toy" Ser3 with a ford V8 he was very happy with the work but doubted that I would pass the test,which he estimated would cost between $5000 and up to $10000 to conduct.He also added that if I went and bought a brand new toyota or nissan 4WD station wagon and conducted the same test THEY WOULD NOT PASS in standard form.
    Andrew
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    If a standard car wouldn't pass, then what is the point of the test.???? :?

    That just seems like a stupid idea........just a way to put people off modding their cars, without the gov actually saying you can't do it. :roll:

    I wonder if anyone has actually paid and arranged for that test to be carried out.

  6. #6
    tombraider Guest
    My last beast is alive and well living in WA.

    2 1/2" suspension lift, 2" body lift and 35" tyres...
    5.0L V8 etc... Running Haltech.

    ALive, kicking and Legally/compliantly registered in WA

    So it CAN be done!!!!!

    Cheers
    Mike

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by LandyAndy
    my "Toy" Ser3 with a ford V8 he was very happy with the work but doubted that I would pass the test,which he estimated would cost between $5000 and up to $10000 to conduct.He also added that if I went and bought a brand new toyota or nissan 4WD station wagon and conducted the same test THEY WOULD NOT PASS in standard form.
    Andrew
    my god what a laugh! $5000 ! THAT'S MORE THAN THE WEEKENDER (RR) IS WORTH.

    Thanks for the info though.
    I think I'll stick with the 2" sus lift for now. Maybe down the track I'll get the 2" body lift but as I only paid $2500 for my new weekend ride I'll be having a hard think about that.

    OK that's one decided the 2" lift,
    What about the rims & rubber?
    Is it worth me buying 16" rims & tyres? That would make it a 3" lift in all wouldn't it?

    How would that be legally?

    Is it worth me spending the extra cash for a 1" tyre lift? I'd get extra traction though, right?

    Ouch my head is hurting.

    Hi Mike, thanks for the answer but what's this about 30, 31, 32" tyres? How can a 15" or 16" rim be a 30 odd inch tyre??Does that mean a 15" rim has a 30 " tyre?
    Sorry to be so dim, but I am.

    Steve

  8. #8
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Originally posted by downundersteve
    (snip)

    Hi Mike, thanks for the answer but what's this about 30, 31, 32" tyres? How can a 15" or 16" rim be a 30 odd inch tyre??Does that mean a 15" rim has a 30 " tyre?
    Sorry to be so dim, but I am.

    Steve
    The yanks have a weird system of denoting some tyre sizes by overall diameter, width, rim diameter, all in imperial units - hence the 30", 31" etc. You see it commonly on 15" offroad sizes since these originate from there, rather than the usual metric width, %profile, imperial rim diameter, which when you think about it is really just as weird.
    John

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    Originally posted by downundersteve
    What about the rims & rubber?
    Is it worth me buying 16" rims & tyres? That would make it a 3" lift in all wouldn't it?

    How would that be legally?

    Is it worth me spending the extra cash for a 1" tyre lift? I'd get extra traction though, right?

    Ouch my head is hurting.

    Hi Mike, thanks for the answer but what's this about 30, 31, 32" tyres? How can a 15" or 16" rim be a 30 odd inch tyre??Does that mean a 15" rim has a 30 " tyre?
    Sorry to be so dim, but I am.

    Steve
    15" to 16" rim change won't give you any lift assuming the same tyre size, unless you have no tyres on it at all, and then it would only be half inch lift as the extra inch is spread around the rim, not just on the bottom.

    Imperial tyre sizes are quoted as the outside diameter of the tyre(30,31,32,33,34,35 inch etc), rim size is the hole in the middle of the tyre(15,16,17,18 inch). All the things between the OD and the rim is called sidewall.

    IMHO 15" tyres are better off road, because of the bigger sidewall, allowing more flex in the carcass, which, in turn, allows the tyre to mould itself over rocks and other objects better when at low tyre pressures. It also provides more impact absorbsion due to the larger sidewall.

    16" rims are probably a better all round combination for on and off road as they will provide better handling on the road due to the lower sidewall height for a given size, and for the type of off roading most people do, the difference will be barely noticeable off road. They will ride slightly firmer, but you should hardly notice it in a Rangie.

    So there is my opinion, what you need to do is work out what you will be doing with the Rangie and then work out if new rims are worth the money. Something to also consider is the 16" tyres then to cost more in a like for like situation.

  10. #10
    RichardK is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Fitting 16"wheels won't give you a lift over the original RR setup as that was standard, it will depend on the tyres you fit, and then if you fit over a certain dia then you will need a body lift.
    RichardK

    Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,

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