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Thread: Which Oil

  1. #1
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    Which Oil

    My TD5 Disco won't be due for a service for another 10K but a friend of mine suggested replacing the oil every 5000kms.

    Q: Which is the best oil to use for the TD5 and if the oil is getting changed this often is it really necessary to change the filter before the service.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    There is little or no point in changing the oil and not the filter, you drain out 'most' of the old oil, apart from the 1 + ltr that is in the filter, then you pour in an nice clean expensive oil..............

    Just to contaminate it with the dirty oil, and the dirt, held in the filter.

    For the cost of a filter (< $30.00) in my opinion it just isn't worth it.

    As for the type of oil, much is down to personal choice, but again in my view get the most expensive you can afford.

  3. #3
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    I do mine every 5000kms and oil + filters every 10000kms. My oil is always clean when I drain it, so filter contamination is not a real issue but breakdown of the oil maybe. The filters are rated for 20k & 60 k respectively. I find it cheap insurance and most diesel mechanics will recommend this. Do your own in between oil changes and it does not effect warranty, only scheduled servicing needs to be done by a licenced MTA workshop.
    I use Penrite HPR-5 good stuff. Castrol synthetic is OK or any other that meets specs and all depends on budget. If you are going to use mineral based oils then 5000km intervals become more important. Buy in 20 litre drums if you can afford it as it ends up cheaper in the long run.
    Cheers
    Craig
    Last edited by CraigE; 29th April 2007 at 03:08 PM.
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  4. #4
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    I have found Castrol Edge to be an excellent fully sythetic oil, and always come out very clean every 10,000km.

    I have to have it done a this interval due to an extended warrenty, but I would not want to go less. With the TD5 I am happy with this interval, even though I 4wd and tow often.

  5. #5
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    http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/cast...=98&Model=2341

    This from the Castrol site & what LR use from factory & recomend

  6. #6
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    Im using Castrol edge.Intending to change over to Mobil1 next service.
    No need to do 5000ks changes,with synthetics you can go 20000ks!!!!
    Do mine at 10000ks,changing both oil filters.
    The synthetic oil comes out very clean for a diesel,my motors got 219000ks up.Go check the colour of oil in any jap diesel!!!!BLACK AS!!!!!
    Andrew
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  7. #7
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    I would recommend 10,oookm interval oil changes and filters for the Td5, especially if it has been chipped and/or is driven hard.

    The main thing to consider is the viscosity rating. You must use a 5w 30,40 or 50 oil, and AFAIK synthetics are your only choice with the 5W rating.
    The reason for this is to allow quick oil volume to the camshaft area etc during startup. Failure to do this leads to early cam failure. The opening ramps on the cam are quite aggressive, and there is a heap of lift. I know it has rollers but there is a fair bit of load on the cam lobes and hence the bearings all the same.

    use heavier oils at your peril.

    JC

  8. #8
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    unless it's taking you twelve months to do 5000km, why change it ?
    Seriously, you are just throwing money away, it won't prolong/protect any better. That centrifuge filter is absolutely brilliant at spinning out anything suspended, including soot.

    FWIW, I take a TD42T Patrol (indirect injection !) to a 20,000km OCI routinely with a premium (full synthetic, PAO/ester, just for ladas ) diesel oil and premium filters, yet the factory recommended OCI is 5000km. Oil test results are thumbs up every time, and it's just clocked over 250,000km without a spanner on it. We got into the habit of extended OCI's with this vehicle as at one stage we were doing an oil change every three weeks ! (highway miles only, although a lot of towing at the time)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    unless it's taking you twelve months to do 5000km, why change it ?
    Seriously, you are just throwing money away, it won't prolong/protect any better. That centrifuge filter is absolutely brilliant at spinning out anything suspended, including soot.

    FWIW, I take a TD42T Patrol (indirect injection !) to a 20,000km OCI routinely with a premium (full synthetic, PAO/ester, just for ladas ) diesel oil and premium filters, yet the factory recommended OCI is 5000km. Oil test results are thumbs up every time, and it's just clocked over 250,000km without a spanner on it. We got into the habit of extended OCI's with this vehicle as at one stage we were doing an oil change every three weeks ! (highway miles only, although a lot of towing at the time)

    Good point Rick, I forgot to add the bit about time, 12 months MAX, and your bit about high mileage means longer intervals are acceptable when running at operating temp for long periods without shut down.

    JC

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I would recommend 10,oookm interval oil changes and filters for the Td5, especially if it has been chipped and/or is driven hard.

    The main thing to consider is the viscosity rating. You must use a 5w 30,40 or 50 oil, and AFAIK synthetics are your only choice with the 5W rating.
    The reason for this is to allow quick oil volume to the camshaft area etc during startup. Failure to do this leads to early cam failure. The opening ramps on the cam are quite aggressive, and there is a heap of lift. I know it has rollers but there is a fair bit of load on the cam lobes and hence the bearings all the same.

    use heavier oils at your peril.

    JC
    SAE viscosity ranges are really deceptive.
    Here's a post I added to a thread on another forum once. Note that at 0*C, Redline 15W-40 is thinner than Penrite HPR5 5W-40 ! Once temps get below this, HPR5 will win out.

    5w-40 is NOT thinner than an equivalent 15W-40 at operating temp, in fact there may be f%ck all difference at 0*C, and some 5W-40's are thicker than some 15W-40's at 0*C.
    An SAE viscosity is a range, actual viscosity is measured in centistokes (cSt) eg an xW-40 must fall between 12.5 cSt and 16.3 cSt @ 100*C (most apear to fall @ 14-15cSt)
    A 0W-xx or 5W-xx is able to pump/flow at much lower temps than a 15W-xx. Pumping viscosity at low temps is measured in centiPascals (cP) and a 0W-xx cannot exceed 3250 cP @ -30*C , a 5W-xx must not exceed 3500 cP at -25*C, and a 15W-xx cannot exceed 3500 cP @ -15*C.

    Here's some specs for a few different oils at various temps

    Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40. 14.8 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -45*C
    Castrol RX Super 15W-40. 14.5 cSt @ 100*C pour point -27*C
    Redline 15W-40. 15.1 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -45*C
    Penrite HPR5 5W-40. 15.1 cSt @ 100*C. (no pour point given)
    Shell Rimula Ultra 10W-40. 14.6 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -30*C
    Castrol Magnatec 10W-40. 14.6 cSt @ 100*C. pour point <-35*C

    yet at 0*C we get

    D 1= 1066 cSt
    RX = 1358 cSt
    RL = 1122 cSt
    HPR= 1350 cSt
    RU = 0809 cSt
    Mag = 1182 cSt

    a 10W-40 (Shell Rimula Ultra) is actually thinner than both 5W's, and a 15W (Redline) is thinner than the 10W Magnatec and the Penrite HPRD5 at 0* !

    It's only when you get down to North American type winter temps that the 5W-40's really show an advantage in pumpability.

    HPR5 has a cranking pressure (cp) @ -30*C of 5719, yet
    Magnetec has a cp of 7000 @ a warmer -25*C.
    The only other directly comparable number was for the older CH-4 version of Delvac 1 which had a cp of 3250 @ -25*, and 20,000 @ -35*.

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