Thread: Proton energy pills

Originally Posted by Aaron

Will you put up a tutorial of the intercooler install?

only if you insist.

Even step by step photos without words would be enough.

maybe this is a better question for tombraider to answer.........but how many different maps are on offer......?

and how do i know which one lurch has got........?


what are the different power figures to be expected from each re-map......?



i got mine done just over a year ago........and have been wondering ever since why i didnt get it done sooner.......


its just great fun to actually pull out into the next lane and be able to overtake.......up hills....!!
previously unheard of before the chip.......



its hard to believe the power that is available without touching anything on the engine......

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

maybe this is a better question for tombraider to answer.........but how many different maps are on offer......?

and how do i know which one lurch has got........?


what are the different power figures to be expected from each re-map......?

Mate....

I have access to over 300 maps for the TD5.
I have access to over 20 maps for TDV6 (but havent got the programmer yet)

Lurch has the one I put on there What else can I tell you?
But its what I call a Level 1 (No IC upgrade) program for AU fuel

Different maps are for power, economy, upgrades etc...
IC, Exhaust etc...

Also a large number of the maps are a "chosen" map with a tweak to suit a difficult engine..

When I say difficult, I mean, doesnt take to a map that would usually work in an upgrade...

Graeme had one, it was a troublesome vehicle stock, and the program improved some issues but was poor in others...
We fitted a map customised to his vehicle (done long distance mind you) to tweak out the issue.

We did this from data supplied by him regarding rpm, load, temp, throttle etc...

I believe he's quite happy with the result.

Other maps are for fuel quality.... EU fuel is generally higher grade so the maps feed a bit more in etc....

Does this help...

ok so with a chokkas tank yesterday the trip meter was zerod in preperation for the fuel economy test of the new brain. Before her pill big red used to pull down, from a chokkas full tank, 250Km by the time the fuel needle was in the middle of the graduation mark for 3/4.

the primary part of the run was up to the toowooomba showgrounds yep that includes up the toowoomba range, more on that later. I have to say that trying to drive big red now for economy is like holding a perfectly cooked steak with all the trimmings and a glass of cold beer under the nose of a blindfolded starving man and then telling him he cant have it. It just aint fair. Anyhow on with the test results.

After today im at 230+ km and Ive not yet hit the graduation for 3/4 of a tank even with the fuel gauge swinging either side of where it should be by at least the width of the needle. Ive found that by letting her sit turned off then turning the ign on IF im on level ground I get a true reading and Im one and a half needle widths from the graduation and given that I average about 10k to the needle width that puts me bang on for the fuel burn I used to get heres how I did it...

Before I get into the details of how I need to define a couple of things. Theres a big difference between driving for economy and driving for fuel effeciency. Driving for economy is a balancing act of the extra time you take versus the fuel you save theres no point in taking an extra 4 hours to cover a given distance if at the end of the day all you save is 1 or 2 l of fuel.( in some circumstances driving for economy actually means using more fuel) Driving for fuel effeciency is what you do when you must save your fuel and squeeze every last inch out of every last liter.

My aimed cruise speed was about 95 indicated which is about where it always But I dont aim to hold it there like a rock I let the speed wander and use the boost gauge to keep the fuel burn as low as is reasonable.

The basics for loud pedal application were as follows,

the egg principal which for those of you who dont know is when you apply the accelerator like theres an uncooked egg between you boot and the pedal.

my desired indicated speed was 90-95kph

If my speed was over 85 indicated then I would keep the boost gauge under 11PSi if over 90 then Id keep it as low as possable but let it have just enough to slowly creep up.

If over 95 kph Id hold the last throttle setting or if running downhill allow enough throttle to keep 5psi of boost on regarldess of additional speed gain

If over 100 (the posted limit in most places) id back off untill 100 was maintained.

naturally If the posted limits were lower ID stick to them and same same for the road/traffic conditions.

There were 2 exemptions to the whole run where I threw the concept of fuel economy and gave it as much boot as I could.

the second was while being passed by a semi I noticed his spare hangin from the safety chain and bouncing off of the road and the chassis so once hed passed me plenty of right boot was given to get up along side of him and connie shouted the warning to him (why his 2 was wasnt on I'll never know)

The First was planned and it was the assult on the Toowoomba range....

on the lead up to the bottom of the range I wound it up to the 100kph limit and was determined to get up in 5th with my foot held flat.. about 30 seconds saw that as a bad plan as I was climbing at 120, rising and catching the cars on the hill very very quickly.

So I backed off and settled to climb at 90 in 5th on 14 or so PSI of boost. That lasted untill we got caught up to some slower vehicles and the falcon I was locked in behind couldnt beat 80 so the last K of the trip up the hill was done in 5th at 70ish with me working the throttle down to minimum boost to not loose the ford in front...



To condense all the info on this thread so far

Upgrade your ECU its worth it...

The extra power will burn lots of fuel if you let it.

You can drive just as economically if you try (you'll want a boost gauge to help with this) But its a lot harder to do as it wants to go, it doesnt take much loud pedal to make the boost gauge climb rapidly and if your on a hill unless your watching the exhaust you dont get a lot of warning about it. If youve got the big fuel map you can easily exceed the safe exhaust temps.

If you have no idea what most of what the above means dont get a big upgrade the extra power is more than what parts of the vehicle are rated to deal with and you risk the engine itself.

again.

Tomby done good.

All thats left for me to write up is the towing write up which will hopefully be next week and once thats been done I'll do the whole thing as a single review.

Didn't run into you at the swap Dave.

thats cause I saw you first

I did score somethin you want tho...

no landy parts my butt....

guess what it was and its yours for nix... one guess only.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats cause I saw you first

I did score somethin you want tho...

no landy parts my butt....

guess what it was and its yours for nix... one guess only.

Didn't say no Landy parts........just that there weren't many. PM sent re part.