Thread: Tubed or tubeless

Originally Posted by V8Landy

What tyres are you running and what is sikaled.Cheers Brett

Sorry - typo - Sikaflex - silicone-like adhesive. Holds the world together.

I have 285/75-16 and 255/85-16s (both 33"), both on galvanised disco 7x16 steels.


Oh - and external beadlocks are illegal. However quite a few people seem to get away with them.

Internal beadlocks would mean tubes are no longer needed.

It does seem to be a Simex problem. They peel too easily. I had the same problem with them, & a few on Outer Limits have too. Not sure why.

Secondairs fixed it for me.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by V8Landy

Does this mean external beadlocks and if so what sort of money.I was thinking of going this way but was told they are illegal but probably would'nt worry me to much as they are only my play tyres.Cheers Brett

Illegal smegal, so are my 35's

100 bucks a rim DIY and up from there

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Sorry - typo - Sikaflex - silicone-like adhesive. Holds the world together.

I have 285/75-16 and 255/85-16s (both 33"), both on galvanised disco 7x16 steels.


Oh - and external beadlocks are illegal. However quite a few people seem to get away with them.

Internal beadlocks would mean tubes are no longer needed.

What happens when you want to get your tyres of the rims, ever seen how good sikaflex is, maybe a bit of roof and gutter, like speedway

I run tubes in my swampers that are mounted on flipped disco rims which are off road wheels only , I have been out with plenty of people who run tubeless tyres and they are for ever getting mud inbetween the bead and the rim , when run at lower than normal pressure = tyres always go flat
Tubes for off road tyres i say

define off road.

in most cases it doesnt make a lot of difference till you get down to 15 or less PSI.

then you have to choose between contamination inside the bead letting your tyres down or tearing the tube if you get any tyre/rim slippage.

I prefer tubes but then I also prefer split rims.

A tubed tyre is easier to butcher back into life if need be with some tarp your old tube, a new tube and plenty of baby powder.

a tubeless with a small leak is easier to field repair.

a tubed tyre is easier to seat + inflate

A tubless tyre is easier to get apart in the first place (usually)

Originally Posted by rovercare

What happens when you want to get your tyres of the rims, ever seen how good sikaflex is, maybe a bit of roof and gutter, like speedway

Yeah, maybe... But you probably won't break either with a tyre lever

Originally Posted by rovercare

You can't run internal beadlocks AND tubes

I ran tubes for years, in my 35" centipedes now internal locks, the internals are a pain, they still get **** in the bead, but never unseat, so you're still forever cleaning the bead would prefer to stay with tubes

Externals for me next

Yes you can't run the internals with tubes, nor can you run the internal tyre pressure monitors that clamp around the rim.

The mechanical beadlocks only clamp the outer face and will still pop the inside bead. This used to annoy me greatly in supersedan speedway when I was crewing and we were running around 4psi - 15psi max. It is a trade off. For my use which is mainly touring, tubeless and internals are the go. Play tyres, mech and tubes, but you have to be comfortable running the legal gauntlet. That bit is up to your own discretion.

CC