Thread: Removing skins from series doors and bonnet etc... How do I not wreck a prefect door?

mark2 - sikaflex is a great product - but no chance of ever getting the skins off again. I used brush on sound deadener to isolate mine from the frame. A non-drying product like windscreen sealant would be fine though. I have heard that coillers use sikaflex/glue, and you have a 50/50 chance of getting the skin off or buggering it.

Originally Posted by Shonky

Thanks mate. I did consider Galvanising them but I was worried about them warping. I know from some of your other posts that you are firmly in the "galvanise everything" camp - what else have you had Galv'd?

I have often thought of just galvanising every steel component I could, but I have heard some horror stories about the varying quality of workmanship from Galvanisers. I might just go nuts with zinc-rich primer and make sure my paint coverage is top notch. I know it won't be as good but it will be cheaper and I will feel more comfortable about it.

Back on door skinning: Do you reckon a bit of heat would help help tighten things up? It would anneal the Ally at the same time too I suppose...

I didn't anneal my skins, and 14 years on - no complaints. I think they are pretty soft. I did "heat shrink" (anneal) some high spots when panel-beating them (heat with an oxy till it changes colour then hit the high spots with a wet sponge.

My skins are VERY tight. A "bit of heat" would probably anneal (soften) the ally - right at the join.

I have HEARD plenty of galvanising horror stories, but never experienced one. Minor distortion, bits of crap mixed with the zinc, small patches of missing zinc (touched up with cold gal) - but that is all. If you are a perfectionist, paint is probably better, but if you want it to last forever...

Originally Posted by p38arover

Do you want me to fix this as well?

Late = tired. Go away Ronald!