Thread: Removing skins from series doors and bonnet etc... How do I not wreck a prefect door?

Chances are you will at minimum need some spray putty (if not a VERY SMALL amount of filler) when you put them back on.

I used a combination of a very large screwdriver and a bolster chisel to lever the folds on my skins back. Make sure you do it EVENLY - keep going side-side along one edge, lifting a little bit at a time - otherwise you will stretch the ally.

To refit, I placed a block of timber on the outside, and used a plastic/leather/wood hammer (can't remember quite which now) to fold the corners back down.

p.s. - I galvanised my door frames - highly reccommended.

yes, its easy enough.
I've done it a few times.
In addition to what Ben said, when reinstalling, lay the skin outside down on a piece of cardboard then place the frame onto it. I find that a thin bead of sikaflex on the skin before you lay the frame on helps to make it feel more solid. Never had a problem with the alloy folding back down tight, you dont need to bend the lip the full 90 degrees to remove it.
I too recommend galvanising the frames as you wouldnt want to remove them more than once - too much fatigue in the folds.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Chances are you will at minimum need some spray putty (if not a VERY SMALL amount of filler) when you put them back on.

I used a combination of a very large screwdriver and a bolster chisel to lever the folds on my skins back. Make sure you do it EVENLY - keep going side-side along one edge, lifting a little bit at a time - otherwise you will stretch the ally.

To refit, I placed a block of timber on the outside, and used a plastic/leather/wood hammer (can't remember quite which now) to fold the corners back down.

p.s. - I galvanised my door frames - highly reccommended.

Thanks mate. I did consider Galvanising them but I was worried about them warping. I know from some of your other posts that you are firmly in the "galvanise everything" camp - what else have you had Galv'd?

I have often thought of just galvanising every steel component I could, but I have heard some horror stories about the varying quality of workmanship from Galvanisers. I might just go nuts with zinc-rich primer and make sure my paint coverage is top notch. I know it won't be as good but it will be cheaper and I will feel more comfortable about it.

Back on door skinning: Do you reckon a bit of heat would help help tighten things up? It would anneal the Ally at the same time too I suppose...

Originally Posted by mark2

yes, its easy enough.
I've done it a few times.
In addition to what Ben said, when reinstalling, lay the skin outside down on a piece of cardboard then place the frame onto it. I find that a thin bead of sikaflex on the skin before you lay the frame on helps to make it feel more solid. Never had a problem with the alloy folding back down tight, you dont need to bend the lip the full 90 degrees to remove it.

cardboard and sikaflex - check.

Originally Posted by mark2

I too recommend galvanising the frames as you wouldnt want to remove them more than once - too much fatigue in the folds.

Good point... I do want this car to last forever too.

Okay so that's two votes for Galvanising frames.

I have removed the skins off the doors for 1 of my series IIBs the doors are too rare to let rust out and I am going to galvanise.

Before you cold chisel the skin off, anneal the aluminium edge first. You just need a burner of some type and propane is a good temp that wont burn or melt the aluminium. Heat it up until it softens and bends easily using a broad faced tool, a wooden handled paint scraper is ideal.

Do the same when crimping back using a very broad tool, even a piece of timber the whole length of the door edge.

If you don't anneal the aluminium may crack off when you crimp it back.

Diana

In the UK where rust is a much bigger problem there were always door skin folding tools in automotive tool adverts, not sure if they are readily available in Australia. The replacement skin had folded edges (just over 90 degrees).
I've seen several different designs, the latest ones use nylon blocks to reduce marking the skin as it is crimped into place.

Door Skin Folding Tool Sealey RE92/33


Colin

Originally Posted by Shonky

Removing skins from series doors and bonnet etc... How do I not wreck a prefect door?

There's no point wrecking a Prefect door - it won't fit a Landie!

Originally Posted by p38arover

There's no point wrecking a Prefect door - it won't fit a Landie!

I am surprised, impressed and ****ed off at the same time!

My spelling is usually above your scrutiny Ron, but it seems that even I can fall victim to your eagle eye!(s)

Could a Mod amend my thread title, please? (unless I can do it myself...?)