Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 31

Thread: Jerry Cans..... Plastic or Steel?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Horsley Park, Sydney
    Posts
    2,939
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have 6 of the original army cans, 4 of which I use for boat fuel when on hols. A few had flakes of rusty paint coming out so I cleaned them all up and gave them a coating of POR 15 tank sealer. One litre was more than enough to treat 6. This prodict puts an epoxy film over the entire surface. They claim to seal small rust holes as well. I previously used this product to coat out Defender sill tanks before installation. This isn't cheap at about $70 per litre - if you shop around. Here is a bit of a write-up on the product

    PPC - Tank Sealer

    Having said that, If I would have to buy new ones to-day I would no doubt go fot good quality plastic.

    Erich

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Yorkshire, UK
    Posts
    447
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My vote will go for steel. Plastic ones tend to expand if you fill them cold and temperature rises sharply. If temp drops/outside pressure changes due to big changes in altitudes they implode. This leaves it possible for fumes to escape from the cap.

    Drop them out of the back of a Land Rover they split. Too easy to lose the rubber seals on them so spills fuel when you pour.

    Steel ones especially new ones have locking pins to keep cap locked. If worried about noise from them you can pad them/firmly fix them with ratchet straps etc

    Regards

    Brendan

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    14,276
    Total Downloaded
    0
    steel for me....but then again i didn't pay for them, hand me downs

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Toowoomba QLD
    Posts
    1,132
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The disposal shops around here have been selling good quality ex Nato?? steel cans for while now - good seals and a proper internal liner coating. The cheap ones rust quickly and leak. A proper mounting bracket is especaially important with a steel can.

    But having said that, plastic is probably the way to go for practical purposes, steel jerrys are a bit of a nostalgia item these days.

    I'd also suggest getting a yellow one for diesel - its a standard colour and helps to prevent mix-ups.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    On the road around Australia
    Posts
    900
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mark2 View Post
    The disposal shops around here have been selling good quality ex Nato?? steel cans for while now - good seals and a proper internal liner coating.
    Yep, apparently the military are phasing out their steel jerry cans and replacing them with a plastic variant - will be interesting to see what they'll be like.

    And my defender runs on veggie oil - so what colour can should I be using????

  6. #26
    numpty's Avatar
    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Nundle
    Posts
    4,077
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bushie View Post
    I've got half a dozen Rheem steel ones from the 50s. Still going strong although I'd say when they fail I'll end up with plastic (if I need them).

    I abide by a colour scheme as well, they were painted red when I used them for petrol, now I use them for diesel they are painted red.
    Martyn
    x2, although I have black, red and also light blue ones and they get used strictly for diesel............and petrol.
    Numpty

    Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
    Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
    Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
    Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
    ​Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
    REMLR No 143

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
    Posts
    6,336
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have entertained the idea of getting stainless ones. Although pricey providing they don't split or crack should last forever and would not have internal flaking issues.
    Any comments about this.
    Anyone know where to buy them? I saw some a while ago on the net but was an overseas company that did not respond to my emails. See below.

    Dave.

    10 l stainless steel jerry cans .:+:. Specials .:+:. ► internet shop gelg.pl

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    West Gippsland - Victoria
    Posts
    2,907
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I like the solid plastic 10 litre black ones. Hell of a lot easier to handle and pack than the 20 litre ones. Especially on the roof. One thing to remember is use broad straps to tie them down as rope wears a hole in the plastic.

    Deano

  9. #29
    miky Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike_ie View Post
    And my defender runs on veggie oil - so what colour can should I be using????
    Black with yellow strips???

  10. #30
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,519
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    I have entertained the idea of getting stainless ones. Although pricey providing they don't split or crack should last forever and would not have internal flaking issues.
    Any comments about this.
    Anyone know where to buy them? I saw some a while ago on the net but was an overseas company that did not respond to my emails. See below.

    Dave.

    10 l stainless steel jerry cans .:+:. Specials .:+:. ► internet shop gelg.pl
    My concern with stainless steel (apart from the price) is that most grades of stainless steel are subject to work hardening and cracking if subjected to vibration or cyclic loading. This would be the situation with either road vibration with the jerrican partly full, or with expansion and contraction with daily temperature changes, especially when empty.

    This can be a problem even with mild steel ones if they are the thin walled "cheap" ones (not often on the military ones) and mild steel is far less susceptible to this problem (I have one on the "is this of any use?" pile at the moment). If the thickness of the wall material is sufficient, it is not a problem, but there is a tendency to use thinner material when a product is stainless, as there is no need to allow for rust, plus the stuff is expensive!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!