Thread: Holden 2a build "OPAL"

Before pulling the box, check the pins on the sleeve joining the release shaft to the slave cylinder bellcrank!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Before pulling the box, check the pins on the sleeve joining the release shaft to the slave cylinder bellcrank!

Looked at this thanks for the heads up John, shaft and crank arm locked solid tried a few well aimed taps and bangs with a hammer to no avail

Cheers Paul

As it turned out I didn't have to remove the gear box

Maladjustment on my part had the slave cylinder piston pop out and jam the clutch actuator lever

IMG_5775.jpg the only way to release the pin at the bottom of the pushrod to free things was to unbolt the slave cylinder.

The problem was easy to see once the dust boot was removed, no damage to the cylinder thankfully and all working as it should at the moment

Wasn't a bad way to spend a few hours on a sunny winters day

IMG_5773.jpg

Cheers Paul

Ok good news is, clutch mechanism from the pedal to the top hat release bearing is working fine and every thing is within tolerance

Bad news clutch is still slipping, my gut feeling is the pressure plate that came in a blue box is possibly not suitable for the job.

The pressure plate I removed had badly worn fingers probably from PO riding clutch pedal

IMG_5780.jpg IMG_5781.jpg IMG_5782.jpg

I didn't really give it much thought at the time and ordered a 2.25 petrol Land rover pressure plate, this could have been a wrong move as it would seem the springs are not strong enough for the holden motor,
I'm going to remove the gearbox and see if plate is contaminated first as unfortunately in my ignorance I used some grease on the gearbox shaft, not a lot but who knows.

I have another pressure plate from a Holden conversion but I was reluctant to use it because someone had welded a bit of flat bar to it, I'm now thinking maybe this was to balance it after a refurb at some stage

IMG_5787.jpg so maybe I will use it, will know more after the gearbox is out

Cheers Paul

Don't know if it will fit, but a diesel pressure plate should have a higher clamping force than a petrol one. Only guessing.

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

Don't know if it will fit, but a diesel pressure plate should have a higher clamping force than a petrol one. Only guessing.

Correct, I believe.

Just make sure it is not slipping because of pressure from the release bearing or the pressure plate loose.

Got the gearbox separated from the fly wheel using the through the door technique more working room than I expected.

Part of my problem IMG_5788.jpg fingers touching the housing

Gap on spare engine IMG_5787.jpg

I'm going to buy a new clutch plate bolt up both pressure plates and check clearances to LR manual specs

It seems both of the old pressure plates have had the fingers adjusted at some time looking at the butchered lock screws

IMG_5797.jpg IMG_5798.jpg my prestine new one IMG_5801.jpg

Maybe my new one needs adjusting, will phone around monday to see if I can get a clutch plate locally, may as well do it now and get everything right from word go.

Sharp learning curve here

IMG_5790.jpg

Cheers Paul

Did you fit a new flexible line in the hydraulic system of the clutch?
A similar issue that happens to series brakes sometimes can happen to the clutch, a bit of crap in the line due to hose deterioration can act like a one way valve and restrict fluid return, resulting in the thrust bearing not completely returning and the clutch not being completely released.
If its a purpose built flywheel for the conversion it might be thicker than a standard Holden flywheel in order to achieve more weight.
Make sure when you put it all together that the thrust bearing is clear of the fingers when the clutch is released.
I have edited this message as the thrust bearing carrier length issue i mentioned is relevant to the series 3 type clutch, not the 2A.
I will PM you my phone number if you want to call me.


Cheers, Mick.