Schrader Valve installed in Suspension Air Tank

**bbyer** · 25th June 2010, 11:45 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

skip the VOSS stuff, festo, wabco and bendix make exactly what you need to T in the way that you want to.

you might want to consider the Y or parallel joiners if you're going to route the hoses anywhere because they let you anchor the hoses to each other and they take up a lot less space.

Your thoughts re using a Y, (or parallel) instead of a T are very good. The reality is that I already did obtain some conventional machinery type design Y shaped push in fittings as they do make paralleling the lines so much easier.

After getting the Y fittings, I realized that in theory, I have a bigger concern than just running the lines. It occurred to me that a fitting failure would likely appear as a tyre blowout.

I then recalled the fuss here in North America with the Firestone tyres installed on Ford SUV's and the lawsuits that resulted. As such, I decided that I best install either DOT fittings or fittings that are already on the Land Rover, (in otherwords Voss or John Guest.) I purchased a John Guest brand union from Land Rover, (part number STC8580), and looked at it. It was manufactured of composite material and internally, the 4mm OD tube support was there, (as with all DOT and most TUV accepted fittings). This therefore got me to looking for DOT fittings and since DOT Y fittings are not made, (well cannot find any), then I had to discard the Y idea.

This then got me to looking at how tight I could bend the 6mm DIN spec tubing. It is fairly rigid stuff so I took a heat gun to a length and discovered that with not too much heat, I could put a perhaps 6" (150mm) or somewhat tighter radius bend in the tubing with very little apparent internal distortion. As such, installing T fittings and paralleling the lines is a bit more practical.

I might add that here in Canada, finding Metric DOT Push In fittings is not that easy. In Australia, you have it a lot easier in that General Pneumatics, Products - General Pneumatics Pty Ltd appears to have a good stock of the DOT metric stuff; also I now have found out that I can obtain their products thru their agent here in Canada.

**Blknight.aus** · 26th June 2010, 06:16 AM

a fitting failure in air suspension wont appear like a tyre failure been there experienced that.

festo and wabco are world wide, If thier parts are good enough to install in fire engines and emergancy response vehicles then they are good enough to put in a landy.

Dont put minimum radius bends in the plastic lines vibration and heat change can kill them pretty quickly especially if they happen to rub or slide on anything.

Welcome to Altecare Radio Control has the pictures of the plastic connectors I was going to get pics of for you but they can also be had in stainless (and its a yank website)

If you think you're going to have a rub point on the hose you can wrap it in plumbers pfte tape.

**bbyer** · 26th June 2010, 07:50 AM

Thanks for the link. I see that the Altecare link is actually based in Eastern Canada, (Ontario), but they sort of obscure that, ( big Stars and Stripes flag displayed), as no matter how good your product, it is not so easy for "foreigners" to sell into the States.

I note your comment re heat and destroying the integrity of the tubing. I have run my lines inside that black flexible plastic wire wrap, (wiring loom), that the vehicle manufacturerers for the most part, now use to protect their cable bundles in an attempt to reduce chaffing and heat tranfer from where ever and what ever.

Actually here, the other concern is cold. What one does not want is a line trying to flex at -45C.

I sort of assumed the reaction to a rapid release of an air fitting or line rupture between the air spring and valve block would seem like a tyre blowout - and fixing that sort of failure outside at -45C is really not fun.

**Nomad9** · 26th June 2010, 09:52 AM

Hi bbyer,
Thankfully I haven't had to splice any lines on my 05 D3 yet, seems like a good idea. When I spliced the lines on my P38 which inevitably always needs a plan b I use Festo fittings these for me have proved very reliable. Festo - Industrial Automation - Industrial Automation they have an on-line shop and catalogue and mail worldwide by the looks of things. They also sell grab kits with multiple fittings, maybe these people can help.

ArtS · 1st July 2017, 09:51 PM

Hi guys,

I'm new to this site and was excited to see that there was a thread that addressed my current issue with my 3. I was wondering why you would install at each corner. Wouldn't you be able to install one T after the front and rear value blocks? Wouldn't this fill the ends equally and if there was a failure the end would drop not just one corner? Also I am in Nova Scotia Canada can someone please provide a link to a Canadian retailer? Thanks!

**scarry** · 2nd July 2017, 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by ArtS

Hi guys,

I'm new to this site and was excited to see that there was a thread that addressed my current issue with my 3. I was wondering why you would install at each corner. Wouldn't you be able to install one T after the front and rear value blocks? Wouldn't this fill the ends equally and if there was a failure the end would drop not just one corner? Also I am in Nova Scotia Canada can someone please provide a link to a Canadian retailer? Thanks!

More than likely so in emergency, you can air up directly to each suspension air bag.

Dont go through the valve blocks,which maybe not working for whatever reason.

The fuse can also be pulled so the valve blocks won't open,therefore keeping each airbag separate,and isolated from the system.

**cjc_td5** · 3rd July 2017, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by ArtS

Hi guys,

I'm new to this site and was excited to see that there was a thread that addressed my current issue with my 3. I was wondering why you would install at each corner. Wouldn't you be able to install one T after the front and rear value blocks? Wouldn't this fill the ends equally and if there was a failure the end would drop not just one corner? Also I am in Nova Scotia Canada can someone please provide a link to a Canadian retailer? Thanks!

Also, if you could open the valve block and then filled each end, and left each side effectively with an open connection between the two sides, when you went into a corner, wouldn't the outer side compress and transfer air to the inner side which would then lift? This would set up some insane body roll and be extremely unstable. You need to isolate each wheel running a manual air-up system (i.e. computer bypassed).

Chris

ArtS · 12th July 2017, 01:52 AM

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Also, if you could open the valve block and then filled each end, and left each side effectively with an open connection between the two sides, when you went into a corner, wouldn't the outer side compress and transfer air to the inner side which would then lift? This would set up some insane body roll and be extremely unstable. You need to isolate each wheel running a manual air-up system (i.e. computer bypassed).

Chris

Thanks Chris, your comments about the body roll make perfect sense. Independent connections to each side is the way to go. I understand the pieces needed to tee into the line after the value block; however, I need some help connecting the 6mm line coming off the bottom of the tee to a Schrader valve. Would you need a straight 6mm to 1/4 connector to match up to the Schrader valve? Does someone have a diagram with listed components? Thanks!

**101RRS** · 12th July 2017, 09:55 AM

Just buy a GOE emergency inflation kit.

ArtS · 15th July 2017, 09:12 AM

Originally Posted by garrycol

Just buy a GOE emergency inflation kit.

Thanks for the tip Garry! However, I was able to source my own kit for 1/3 of the cost of the GOE kit.

The "T" are rated up to 19 bar and the tubing is 23.5
I know the value connection is a bit of mess but had to work with what I had at hand with local shops for now.
I will look to order a cleaner value setup over time (less joints aka points that could leak).
I plan on mounting the two front valves to the side of air filter box in the engine bay (there is a empty bracket).
The valve will be mounted between the washers.

Anyway I'm installing the first kit in the front tomorrow and will post pics.

So the installation was smooth. No problem accessing the front valve block and installing the T push to connects.
Had an issue with filling the bags as they would only fill to 90psi, which only raised the front to 30inches from floor to fender.
I had to take pressure of the wheels by jacking up the truck and then the bags took 110psi and raised the truck to 32.5 inches. (two inch improvement as I was on my bump stops

My shop compressor only goes to 120psi so thinking this could be the reason.
Also the valve block seems to open and balance the air between the two bags. I know there is a cross link valve; however, there was no power to the valve and my understanding is that when there is no power the valves are supposed to stay closed. Hmmm
Anyway seems to have worked for now. I will check back in the morning to see if she has maintained at 32.5"

Thanks for the motivation!
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Thread: Schrader Valve installed in Suspension Air Tank

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Yes, the Y is a good idea but...

Actually it is a disguised Canadian website.

Need some help with this mod

fittings for 6mm tubing to schrader valve

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