Driving Lights - D3/RRS

**Graeme** · 2nd July 2011, 08:41 PM

It seems that I should not have used the word "occasional" as its a common occurance, although usually sticking on high beam. You could try thumping the lights a few times whilst on high beam.

If there's warranty on the vehicle then best to get them fixed under warranty.

**101RRS** · 2nd July 2011, 10:10 PM

Car lived all its life between Wagga and Albury - and no warranty.

Maybe explains my issue with a rather average high beam.

Garry

**Graeme** · 3rd July 2011, 05:18 AM

Yes, just the halogens with their spread would be very poor straight ahead.

The lights should be easy to remove to inspect the mechanism.

**Graeme** · 8th July 2011, 08:52 PM

Any progress on the lack of bi-xenon high beam Garry?

**101RRS** · 9th July 2011, 11:03 AM

No - been too cold and tied up doing a belt change in the Freelander.

Not a high priority as still have hi and low beam but not Bi Xenon high beam. I parked outside the post office so I could see the reflection in the window and the light from the bi xenons does not change when changing beam. Does the system use a shutter or move the bulb in and out??

Garry

**Beamin** · 9th July 2011, 12:06 PM

I'm fairly sure it's a shutter. It's weird that both aren't working. I'd be looking for something that is common to both and prevents them from triggering. Does anyone know if there is a common earth for both shutter actuators? A fuse perhaps? a bad connection in this part of the circuit? The switch is unlikely to be the problem because the halogens come on when high beam is selected

**bbyer** · 9th July 2011, 02:56 PM

I have attached a jpg of what I could find for the head light electrics.

I could not find any specific reference to the Bi-Xenon wiring but I think that is because any vehicle wiring differences are within the headlight assembly. I think that as it seems the power connector for the high line and low line vehicles is the same and that for the most part, one can buy the high line units to just replace the low line assemblies.

Also below is a jpg from Wikipedia of a shutter type bi-xenon and it is the solenoid controlled shutter that make the light a "bi", that is both high and low beam.

I "presume" the solenoid is powered from the same conductor as are the internal 55 watt halogen high beam bulb. Hence if the 55 watt halogen operates, the shutter solenoids should be powered as well. Hence, the problem is still a puzzle.

I have heard that the shutters can stick, but it is doubtful both sides would stick at the same time. Where a shutter is sticking, it seems that the solution has just been to keep flicking the highs on until they do move.

**Graeme** · 9th July 2011, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by bbyer

Where a shutter is sticking, it seems that the solution has just been to keep flicking the highs on until they do move.

..whilst giving it several good thumps!

**bbyer** · 10th July 2011, 02:42 AM

Originally Posted by Graeme

..whilst giving it several good thumps!

I checked the operation of my headlamp high beam flash this morning. I note that as expected, that both my Bi-Xenon shutters operate at the same time as the Halogen high beam bulbs illuminate.

In other words, if you can find a rough road that really bangs the 3 around, then operating the high beam flash stalk while bumping along is probably about the best fix effort there is.

From reading disco3 posts, it seems that there can be sticking of the shutters where the high beams have not been used on a routine basis.

Also there is one other thought.

I have daytime running lights. As such, my Bi-Xenons are on all the time but the high beam only operates if I have either the head light switch ON and the stalk pushed forward, or if the auto function is not seeing daylight which effectively turns the headlights on and then have the stalk pushed forward.

As such, a malfunction of the headlight auto on off mechanism could keep the both shutters up all the time and hence no high beam action on either of the Bi-Xenons. This would then explain why both of the lights do not function as it is odd that both shutters would stick at the same time. Also check 5 amp fuse 62P behind the glove box for power etc.

**101RRS** · 10th July 2011, 04:03 PM

In between skinning my knuckles and doing a lot of cursing changing the fuel injection belt on my Freelander I had a look at the lights in my RRS.

As usual it is difficult to get at anything but I was able to get into the bi xenon on the passenger side. Where I assume the shutter would be (between the HID bulb and the lens) there is a hole in the bottom of the light housing about 3" across. I could get four fingers in there and see them through the lense when looking from the front of the car.

So if this is the slot where the shutter is supposed to be - I have no shutters. If I had wanted I could have put my fingers back onto the bulb or forward to the lense. There is nothing at the bottom of the light housing to indicate a shutter though there is the spot where it would go.

STOP THE PRESS.

After the above I went back to have a look at the handbook and what I had in my car seemed different, then all becomes clear - while have the lens etc and when looking at the lights from a distance they change colour from blue to yellow etc I do not have Bi Xenons

. They are halogens.

I didn't see that coming

and explains everything. Here is pic of the back of the light housing - if bi xenons there should be a cover with a elect danger sign and some curving arrow indicating the turn left or right.

So maybe I need HIDs in the low beam slot as well as the high beam slots.

Thanks for all the advice - has resulted in me understanding my car a little better.

Garry

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