Thread: Power from White Plug to Anderson Plug

Hi gagsa and welcome to the AULRO.

First off, you need to let us know which pins of the 12S plug are connected to the Anderson plug but also check to see if you have blown a fuse for what ever pin is connected.

hi drivesafe . checked fuse green 30AMP blown. battery fed positive on anderson plug goes to 4/R red wire. negative black wire goes to 3/31 and another black wire from the negative side of anderson plug goes to the centre pin looks like No58 on car plug. I tested the socket on car with voltmeter before pluging the anderson plug in could I have blown the fuse this way cheers

Originally Posted by gagsa

hi drivesafe . checked fuse green 30AMP blown. battery fed positive on anderson plug goes to 4/R red wire. negative black wire goes to 3/31 and another black wire from the negative side of anderson plug goes to the centre pin looks like No58 on car plug. I tested the socket on car with voltmeter before pluging the anderson plug in could I have blown the fuse this way cheers

Wiring sounds correct, although you shouldn't need the earth from the centre pin of the 12S plug - that's the earth for the ignition-feed circuit.

You're powering from the constant-live circuit. Is that what you want (ie power fed from the car battery regardless of the ignition on/off)?

Cheers,

Gordon

Thanks Gordon,
I have put a new fuse in and everything seems to be ok now, we are now getting 12 volt power at the plug. Regarding the constant supply of power, I have to remember to unplug when I stop driving I guess.

Hi Guys,
I would suggest it is better to run a dedicated circuit for the Anderson plug direct from the battery than running through the S type plug.

I have run my anderson plug through a 100Amp redarc SBI12 solinoid. This device senses the batery voltage and will automatically turn off when voltage drops, saving me from getting a flat battery. and saves you the effort of remembering to disconnect. (Pain in the rear end when you forget, even worse if you have an auto and shouldn't jump them I am guessing.)

I would also be concerned about the voltage drop being experianced accross the run. I have ran a fridge in a van accross my setup (not sure of the exact wire size but it is bigger than that on the car) and found over an 8 meter run that I was dropping about 1 volt when running 20 amps through the wire. Haven't done any maths on this but just be aware is my message.

When running a dedicated line, where do you take it from the battery ? simple question but I have had all sorts of advice.
there is an empty threaded hole in the terminal connector whatever that does, but do I just use that to connect to ?

DD

A dedicated line is always a better solution, however it's more complicated and I don't think it's necessary for loads under 20A or so. I've used the switched (ignition -fed pin) option in the S plug over the last 6 years to power the fridge in the various caravans/campers I've had (up to a 175 ltr fridge), and in all that time I've never had an issue. Yes there is a voltage drop (around 1 to 1.5V at full load), but the system works well enough and is switched, so you don't have to worry about forgetting to disconnect it.

Cheers,

Gordon

I have also modified the white socket where I have removed all the pins taped them up then installed my own pins. Two were connected to my auxiliary battery and a third just to help line up and give a better plug fit. I then plug my caravan into the socket which runs a 12 volt to 12 volt battery charger in my caravan to charge the caravan battery. The charger cuts out if the battery supplying it drops below a set figure so as not to flatten the battery. This gives me two batteries if required. So if I disconnect the caravan from the car I still have battery supply.
Cheers Tinman