Thread: Llams or Rods, which one and why?

Originally Posted by weakestlink

LLAMS for me too. The comment about complicated computer might be a little off target. The nifty circuit card in the LLAMS is not at all soft or a sensitive bit in my opinion. It is not a computer. Both would work. I use LLAMS mostly when in really deep water, mud or very rough bits. I have never needed the extra height all day long and doubt many people would (some will/might of course).
Some moderate speed driving between very rough bits presents a increased roll over risk if staying up as high as possible in my thoughts. Most even very rough tracks will have the odd bit where we drive above 40kph. LLams gives immediate ability to get up our down as needed when needed. Think about where you go, what you already do in terms of off road height, what you want to be able to do and then pick what is most suitable for you.

More a case of why unnecessarily run the CVs at such angles if you dont need to!

You are making assumptions about the angle of driveshafts. Have a look at the angle on access, normal and off road heights. I think you will be surprised.

Originally Posted by CaverD3

You are making assumptions about the angle of driveshafts. Have a look at the angle on access, normal and off road heights. I think you will be surprised.

Not surprised at all... I have looked...

The main, planned operational height is "normal"

Extended height is outside of the normal operating area of the joints, which can and do bed in at normal height.

Also, Camber is off at other heights, changing steering and tyre wear dynamics...


Nope, nothing surprises me that much anymore

Just picked up my Disco 3 from Davis performance where I had a secondary Oil Cooler, Llams and a EGR Blanking kit installed.

Love the Llamas flexibility and I will put it to good use during our 3 weeks outback trip starting tomorrow.

EGR blanking made a big different

thanks DoctorJ for asking - the same question has been bugging me also.

LLAMS it is.

Originally Posted by stray dingo

LLAMS it is.

Just don't constantly play with it - for me on the bitumen I use the -20 setting (I never use access anymore). On dirt roads normal onroad height and on good offroad I use "onroad +50" and on the tight stuff "offroad +50" but if there is a lot I leave it there to save pumping up and down all the time.

You need to be aware that the compressor is marginal at the best of times but works fine if cold to just move up and down but runs out of puff and overheats if being used to go up and down all the time (like it does without LLams fitted and you want to go faster than 50kph in offroad height).

Cheers

Garry

Hi all.
I initially fitted the G.O.E. rods. These work great and for their simplicity are fantastic, plus being able to switch back to std position after a day or weekend out in the scrub is great. Takes but a short moment to do this. Since then I have had the opportunity to install a Llams controller. Still playing around with it in the bush, but found it to be extremely useful and like Graeme, i use it most weeks on the daily drive and or about town, but only when required.
Love the ride options available. But it is mostly for the offroad / speed capabilities for me.

(p.s. I have my G.O.E. rods in the market section for anyone wanting to purchase).

Neil.

I'm not sure which diagnostic tool had been mentioned previously but I use the fault mate tI adjust the height. Admittedly this is a fiddle as you need the laptop as well as the diagnostic module plugged in to make changes. I have saved three settings, factory, -10mm, +10mm & +25mm. These values are based on the factory calibration levels.

Once the module is unplugged you adjust in cab as you usually would. It also is ably to clear faults & make other adjustments. The price is the highest though..

What I'd like to know is, has anyone gone to the trouble of correcting the camber on the rear wheels if raised? At +10mm it doesn't visually appear to be affected, at +25 & above the positive camber is noticeable.