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Thread: Off to a Rock Start - and possible Auto issue?

  1. #11
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    Hey Griffo,
    You think your Disco is in a spot of bother.
    Check out what my son did to mine this afternoon........
    Rock falling on Discovery 4 - YouTube

    Cheers, Craig

  2. #12
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    odds on for a write off on that...

    on the gearbox front you could have a comms problem between some bits and pieces so the box brain is getting bad intel. It could also be stuck in limp mode which has a feature that will force a gear change under certain conditions of load/engine speed so you dont blow the front off of the box by sustained high input RPM/low load.
    Dave

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco4SE View Post
    Hey Griffo,
    You think your Disco is in a spot of bother.
    Check out what my son did to mine this afternoon........
    Rock falling on Discovery 4 - YouTube

    Cheers, Craig
    My son did that for real to our Audi when he was 4! Rocks were a bit smaller but still made a mess of the bonnet!

    I tried to teach him a lesson by smashing up his Buzz Lightyear toy with hammer. Do you think I could put a bloody crack in him? No way! Ended up throwing it in the bin instead.

    Felt a bit bad and softened up - got him out of the bin, cleaned him up and reunited the two of them.
    Cheers,

    Sean

    “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein

  4. #14
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    There are a few connectors that could have been crushed by the impact, there's not a lot of wiring on the drivers side referring to anything in the power train as far as I know. I'd definitely let the assessors know about it.

  5. #15
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    So I finally got the car back a couple of weeks ago. The repair work looks good, you really can't tell. The doors do seem to require a bit more "oomph" to shut on that side, but there's brand new door rubbers so i'm putting it down to that for the moment.

    The auto issues continue. Last week, the auto basically turned into a manual for upshifts, it refused to shift up at all, althought it would change down.

    Then it started to show a bunch of warning lights. The DSC, HDC, Gearbox and Brake warning lights would all come on at once. It did this for a good 5 days every time i'd drive anwhere, about 5 minute into the journey.

    After a long wait for it's doctors appointment, it's now been at MLR for the last few days, but they can't find a fault with it - no fault lights, and apparently the gearbox is shifting perfectly... Grrr bloody cars.

    Any ideas? The best MLR can come up with was a low battery issue from being at the panel beaters for so long. I'd done two 2-hour long drives with it prior to the fault lights starting to appear, so i'm not sold on the battery being low either.

    They've changed the brake pedal sensor as apparently there was a single fault logged with that, but no good explanations.

  6. #16
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    "The DSC, HDC, Gearbox and Brake warning lights would all come on at once"

    Those warning all at once sound pretty common and the late upshift sounds like limited gears being available in conjunction with those problems. You probably have a "F" on the dash and the engine warning light stays on when you get the problem. Turning the car completely off and then on again 1 or more times usually clears the mass or errors and gives you normal drive again. Usually no faults of significance are logged in the computer and it is a bugger of a problem to find if the car is not doing it every time.

    Do you have a Diesel or petrol V6?

    known culprits that have been found to cause this
    - low battery
    - brake pedal switch
    - failed or non standard brake globes
    - ground earth cable on the Petrol V6
    - crank angle sensor
    - steering angle sensor calibration
    - gear position sensor/calibration
    - starter motor/solenoid

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffo View Post
    So I finally got the car back a couple of weeks ago. The repair work looks good, you really can't tell. The doors do seem to require a bit more "oomph" to shut on that side, but there's brand new door rubbers so i'm putting it down to that for the moment.

    The auto issues continue. Last week, the auto basically turned into a manual for upshifts, it refused to shift up at all, althought it would change down.

    Then it started to show a bunch of warning lights. The DSC, HDC, Gearbox and Brake warning lights would all come on at once. It did this for a good 5 days every time i'd drive anwhere, about 5 minute into the journey.

    After a long wait for it's doctors appointment, it's now been at MLR for the last few days, but they can't find a fault with it - no fault lights, and apparently the gearbox is shifting perfectly... Grrr bloody cars.

    Any ideas? The best MLR can come up with was a low battery issue from being at the panel beaters for so long. I'd done two 2-hour long drives with it prior to the fault lights starting to appear, so i'm not sold on the battery being low either.

    They've changed the brake pedal sensor as apparently there was a single fault logged with that, but no good explanations.
    If a battery is going on any new electronic car, no amount of driving will help and your problem will continue if it is battery related, it's not like the old days where you could still drive around fine when the battery was nearly gone, today the electronics rely on a certain state of charge to operate correctly.

    Get a new battery, or get it checked at the least.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    If a battery is going on any new electronic car, no amount of driving will help and your problem will continue if it is battery related, it's not like the old days where you could still drive around fine when the battery was nearly gone, today the electronics rely on a certain state of charge to operate correctly.

    Get a new battery, or get it checked at the least.

    Baz.
    What this guy said.

    99% of the time I would replace the battery if I was given a car with these symptoms, if the battery doesn't fix it you can start from there, but you should really ensure your battery is in good working order so it can supply all the ECU's with proper amperage and voltage.

  9. #19
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    Big impacts WILL damage batteries internally, the capacity to accept and hold a charge will diminish markedly if excessive plate material is missing/ fallen down and shorting plates across at the base of the battery case due to a significant impact.
    This is why batteries without proper hold down clamps will be refused warranty claims.

    JC

  10. #20
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    Ditto... and if you read up on the battery issues for the D3/D4 on this forum, you will also see that short trips do not a ' charged battery make.' Fix the battery first, and work through it. It will be worth it.
    D4 2.7litre

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