Thread: A costly mistake, please help!

I hosed mine behind the battery a while back and got your faults - over the next week faults came and went as the module dried out then all was OK. The low range only fault is a bummer but a couple of restarts cleared it.

Good luck - it might come good by itself.

Garry

I would remove the battery and access the transfer case ECU behind it. Check the transfer case ECU connectors for water and corrosion. Soak the connectors (plugs and sockets) with methylated spirits and then carefully blow dry them or leave them sitting for a few hours. The alcohol will absorb any moisture.

You can carefully clean any corroded pins with a cotton bud and some CRC or some other product.

Hopefully with it all dried out the can bus will be able to communicate again.

You could pull the park brake emergency release cable to stop it engaging then don't use it until all sorted. However because the cable re-connects the next time the switch is used, the misbehaviour may cause the switch to effectively be used thereby reconnecting the cables.

If you can get the suspension up to normal height you could then remove the main suspension system fuse (20A) from the engine bay fuse box. The passenger compartment suspension system fuse (5A) can be moved to stop the incessant suspension warning message.

If you can get the transfer case into high range, you could try removing the transfer case ecu. However the gearbox may then go into limp mode with only have limited gears available.

Once you've got that sorted, why do you have corrosion on your battery terminals?
This only happens when your battery is leaking acid fumes around the post. I'd replace it as soon as practical.

I have disconnected the transfer case wiring and given it a good spray with contact cleaner and then dried with the air compressor gun but to no avail, the old man said give them a little spray with wd/crc afterwards.

There was some signs of corrosion on the pins but not a lot. Over the weekend I'll soak them in meth and give that a go! Might take the case module out as well and open it up to see if there is any damage inside.

The puddle of the corrosion and water is on the ground at work and it looks like it'll eat through the concrete, I wonder if it's still anywhere else in the car, surely it wouldn't be good for it.

If I have stuffed the transfer case module, how much are they to replace? Can they be pre programmed?

Can you clear the error codes by any means?

If you can open up the ECU. Soak it with metho as well and have a good look at it for burnt or corroded components. It may come good after you dry it out.

Check any other connectors nearby to make sure they didn't get wet as well.

I have had wet PCBs come good after the metho and drying treatment and I have had others that continued to give faults. One backplane PCB that only had connectors on it never came good even after I baked it in the oven at a low temp for a while.

The later high specification Land Rover models are very demanding on their battery, I would adopt a policy of a new battery every twelve months and put the older battery into another car where it would probably go on for years.

Fit a new battery before any other complications show up.
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