Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
I'm not sure what you are basing this on.
Evidently shooters prefer 4300K for shooting Grey Kangaroos. But Greys have hair on their faces, so for a shooter, the head might matter a lot. While 6000K is preferred for Reds.
In the Southern states, the Red is more popular; in the North, greys are double the number.
Greys also have white fronts, so ... the white front should be visible with higher Kelvin lights, probably ....
I think that LED might have a power benefit, and a longevity benefit. In theory at least ... firms like ARB claim that customers have said to them that their latest and expensive LEDs lights are like nothing they've had before (being really good in comparison). Maybe that is hype ...
With a light bar, they could mix up the kelvin outputs too, and get both light spectrums ... I guess they could do that with round LEDs too. Perhaps that an LED advantage, in that the possibility of mixing Kelvin temps for catching different animals is easy to build. But they don't do that now ... perhaps because there isn't the demand? But you could not mix output temperatures with conventional spot lamps. So, IMO LED has clear advantages, potentially ...
I haven't yet got to making a copy of Chris' bracket but this comment got me wondering ... is there rules/regs related to extra driving lights protruding from the front of the vehicle (no bullbar)? I'm not too worried about damage to lights but rather whether there is any legality issues.
Cheers,
Scott
PS ... I think grill removal would be reasonably straightforward with this type of bracket.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Well I am giving these brackets a go. So far I have got some metal bent rather than welded.
I have done a temp fix to the vehicle.
They stick out a bit far so I will trim them back a bit - 5mm.
All the best,
Laurie
2019 sd6 SE
2012 SDV6 SE (Son stole it from me)
Thus is what the driving lights look like sitting on the brackets
There is still a bit of movement so I will have to look at some more bracing. At the moment I have only got 2 bolts going into the frame behind the bracket.
All the best,
Laurie
2019 sd6 SE
2012 SDV6 SE (Son stole it from me)
I'm welding up something this weekend. Going to make up a diagonal for underneath to add extra strength to avoid propensity to flex over undulations. Unfortunately I've got with 9" lights which are a tad big for that position. I'll only run them for trips and remove them for the city
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
I had a look at a gusset underneath to add some strength but was told not necessary by the bloke who made the bracket for me. I can only put in a small gusset 25mm not sure if it will achieve much. These lights are 9" as well 3kg each.
I am thinking 2 narva light stabiliser bars $16 each. From top of light (cooling fin) to angled frame in front of radiator.
The flat sticking out is wide enough so I can get 2 bolts from light through if I want. It just doesn't look right though. Not symmetrical.
The next problem is that there is nothing to bolt the bottom piece to. Chris went only through the plastic - stiff but not solid. There is metal below it but I have no idea what is under it.
I live in the country so permanent fixture.
All the best,
Laurie
2019 sd6 SE
2012 SDV6 SE (Son stole it from me)
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