That photo of the dash panel is identical to mine - MY07.
DD
Its a 2007 My08 D3 'S' model
I've seen the charred remains of an alternator my mate who is a mechanics pulled from a D3 that was towed in to his shop the other week, possibly that's my issue.
i might throw a voltmeter on the battery and run it into the Cab and drive it like that so I can see the voltage when it faults.
the battery was replaced last last year by Austral motors (its got a date written on it and 3 years warranty in nikko 0_0) perhaps the previous owners attempt to resolve the same issue?
as stated before, It does appear to have the winch cabled direct to the battery, which has been said to be a No no for the D3,and also have a 'Mechanical' solenoid type dual battery isolator fitted by the previous owner also which has been said to again be a 'no no' for the D3 (even though no second battery is fitted)
I think I will start by disconnection both of these and putting the battery on Charge overnight to get it right up to voltage, then test the charge voltage the Alternator is giving? do I need any fancy charger for the D3? or can I just charge it like I normally would with a regulated power supply? (been keeping my Optima going for the better part of 8 years)
Leroy.
That photo of the dash panel is identical to mine - MY07.
DD
Yes noticed that as well - was a bit confused by that as well.
Also my battery is 7 1/2 years old and I accidently left the ignition on for a few hours and the battery was dead as a door nail - not even enough power to light dash lights or internal lights. Wouldn't even jump start where it has done before.
I put it on the SCA smart charger for about 30 mins which put enough power in the battery to start up - lots of lost communication codes but nothing permanent. After driving for a while the battery was back and I have had no issues since.
So if the charging system is working as it is, it will bring flat batteries back if they are still basically OK.
So what I would do is:
Replace the brake switch (they are about $20 and you can do it yourself.
Check your brake lights are all working.
Remove your Manifold Air Pressure sensor - next to the oil filter - and clean it - don't poke anything down the hole and reinstall.
Beg, borrow or steal another battery and put it in.
Clear all code
Go for a drive and see what happens (given the information you have provided you may still EGR codes)
You can do all of the above yourself and may eliminate any cascading issues and may show up any charging issue.
If the problems still exist well you need professional assistance - not from your seller or local mechanic but a good indy or dealer with the right diagnostic gear.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
G'day Leroy,
I had a D3, and now a D4. At some point, I have experienced those lights and more! So....
The D3 - ended up being a faulty brake light. In the end, sent me into crawl mode on the highway. Initially the faults cleared, but progressively got worse. Bulb fixed the problem, but others came with a dying battery. Upside? Replaced all bulbs, the brake switch AND the starter battery - nil further issues.
The D4 - registered gearbox fault and suspension fault three times. Each time, a re-start seemed to fix. Then bang! Would happen again. Every time, it was a bulb... (in this case the headlights). Been four months - no problems!
Good luck - make sure the dealer gets LR to check it out though within your warranty. If it is worse than a bulb or switch, it could cost you mega $$$$
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Had exactly the same intermittent problems - fault code stated faulty crank position sensor (bloody replaced three times). It eventually turned out to be the negative cable termination on the battery. Replaced the cable with a standard "Battery World" type cable and have not had a problem since.
See post http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...on-sensor.html
Last edited by HarryO; 24th November 2014 at 04:34 PM. Reason: .
Hi There,
Fuel pump gets you every time............. At the time it was suspected either electrical or the fuel pump. Never proven either way, all I know is I lost something special on this day. Neighbours noticed the smoke and called the local fire brigade.
That photo makes me sad Marty![]()
Nomad,
which year model?
Had the HPFP recall been done?
I'm calling BS on this comment from LR!
Land Rover
Notice the date? November 2010... so if it was replaced in 2009 - you still have an old style HPFP which should have been replaced after November 2010!
Hint: it is often easier to get a dealership to bat for you in these recalls.
Good luck!
Rob
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