Thread: Bad Press by the truckload

It can be jump started.

Just read the owners manual and follow the clear instructions !!!

This is no different from most other modern vehicles which now have many ECUs which can be damaged by electrical spikes.

There's more to safely starting a modern electronic vehicle from a donor vehicle than just using a cable connection procedure that minimizes the risk of a battery explosion, beginning with the donor vehicle's engine should not be running when the leads are connected. Ideally the donor battery and the jumper leads including clamps can provide enough current without the donor vehicle's engine running. If not possible then steps must be taken to reduce as far as possible the current flow at the time the first (last-fitted) earth clamp is removed, including switching off the donor vehicle's engine and the recipient vehicle engine only idling, with all accessories switched off on both vehicles.

Originally Posted by PAT303

There must be a drama with it,people struggle with it even thou LR used simple instructions,with pictures . Pat

I haven't got 1 to sell YET, still got the D1 and D2 though, I was just asking the question as it seemed not as simple as 1 might think....
Another helpful and insightful post from Pat, as always .....

Originally Posted by discomatt69

This message has been deleted by TerryO. Reason: Not required

Well you will go and make ridiculous statements without any factual basis.

Originally Posted by discomatt69

Are you all serious??? Just when I was starting to think a D3 might be the way to go for a tourer I now find out they can't even be jump started without causing massive dramas WTF

The problems being described with jump starting on here are common in at least some way or other to ALL vehicles out there.

For example - sparking across the terminals : I used to own a Ford F100 with a Chev V8 diesel in it. About as uncomplicated as you could get, with no electronics at all in it. One day I was hooking it up to jump start it - had a brain fart and hooked up directly to the battery terminals, first the positive, and then the negative. As soon as I hooked up the negative - the battery exploded in my face - I was leaning right over the top of it at the time. It wasn't a small battery either, from memory, N70Z or similar.

Fortunately I was wearing sunglasses and got nothing in my eyes. Also fortunately, the wife was nearby with a bucket of water as she was watering some plants in the garden - the contents of the bucket got doused over my head straight away.

As to incorrect procedures when connecting up to jump start a battery causing problems to the electronics in modern vehicles - this is nothing new and is by no means exclusive to any model of Land Rover. I've seen a Prado go home on a tilt tray for exactly these reasons.

Probably the best way to explain the basic points of how to do it correctly is Graeme's post above.

Feel sorry for the fellow LR lw e

Feel sorry for fellow LR owner's troubles but bottom line is they took an old starting battery out in the desert which is a bad idea in any vehicle including Toyotas. I remember being at Dalhousie Springs and being very happy to have a spare battery in case my new one failed.

Sent from my GT-I8730T using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by AnD3rew

I fried my Llams unit when my alternator fried and took out the battery with it. I assume it happened when I jump started the car from my second battery, I had the cables on the positive terminal of the starter battery and the on a body earth point. It's possible the Llams actually saved the suspension ECU as it sits in the line before it.

Don't know why this happened, don't know what I did wrong or how I should do it better next time but interested to hear your thoughts in how to do it better.

This was the post that got me concerned, not the OP re the disco in the outback, although that is also a concern...
don't think my post was that outrageous?